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Routes in Wheeler-Newsome Wall

Strewn Masters of Gore T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tick Fever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wing Nut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA: L. Wheeler & J. Newsome FFA: S. Hong & K. Budding
Page Views: 4,975 total, 31/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 12, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

It is located on the left side of the wall and diangonals right. Start on a platform above the loose wash. Begin with pumpy tight hands switching to something like chimneying up through splitting cracks then swinging out on to the slabby finish. Gears up nicely. Super Fun!

Protection

Cams up to 3" with several small pieces, both nuts and tcu's work well.
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
Gear Recommendations:
Doubles: .3-.75
Singles: .1, .2, 1, 2, 3
Single set of nuts
6 runners/slings

This route is incredible! May 11, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
I succumbed to the tick fever today. Would be interested in hearing how others did the crux. I eventually worked out the crux sequence after the fact, but wow, is it burly! Will have to go back for the RP.

Video of my attempt here (most of it is played at 16x with the exception of the fall):
youtube.com/watch?v=Slu9Uau… Sep 6, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
The bottom takes cams well, and the top takes stoppers well. Nov 28, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Not many good 11a's in the canyon, but this one makes up for it. Beautifully steep thin hand crack to a fat horn rest followed by a fun chimney flake all ending in pulling the small bulge on blue tcu sized crack. Have a couple tcu sized pieces handy for the top 20 feet to the chains. I need some antibiotics for my tick fever! Jul 1, 2011
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
This is one of the most exhilirating and powerful 5.11 climbs in the canyon. This is absolutely not to be missed! Save all your energy for the double cracks... Aug 20, 2010
CalmAdrenaline
SL,UT
 
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
 
Soo gooooood! exciting crux! Thank you Wheeler and Newsom! Is that oldschool hanger at the top from the FA? May 14, 2010
Howdy Brian!---
Yes, it seems like everybody from that period has their Wheeler stories.My favorite is when Wheeler and I raced out from Deep Lake one day,hopped in one of his old beaters,sped 70mph over those beat up roads into Boulder Wyo, to grab some chips ahoy cookies,then zoomed back out to camp at Deep Lake!!White knuckle driving to say the least!
-------JN-------- Jun 21, 2009
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
Hey Jeff:

Thanks for checking in. I like the old name, and I still call it The Wheeler Newsom Wall. The Ruckman's probably changed the name because of all of Steve's contributions. Steve was quite revered at the time. Glad I got to climb with Wheels. Jun 20, 2009
Thanks for noticing Drew!! I confess,my ego was a little bruised when the Ruckmans did that.Though we never named the route,I felt it should have at least been left as the Wheeler-Wall(Ellison originally named it the Wheeler -Newsom Wall,thanks Les!)as a tribute to Wheels.Yeah man, long live Wheeler!!
The Ruckman brothers were tight with Hong so I suppose that prompted it.Who knows??
Cheers,JN Jun 19, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Long live Wheels! I remember in the old guide this was the "Wheeler-Newsom Wall". Funny how guidebook authors get to revise/edit things. May 24, 2009
had a laugh yesterday when I was on this and found a tick on my shoulder May 13, 2009
As someone new to these pages, I was pleasantly surprised to see a route that Lynn Wheeler and I did many years ago has received such high praise.Wheels and I were going thru a "crack" phase back then ,spending many hours roaming up and down the canyon with binoculars,looking for crack climbs.I had spied this one and talked Wheels into going up and looking at what he felt was a scrapheap(and relatively speaking I guess it still is.) We did all the moves except the crux, free.The crux was freed after Hong pulled a pin that Wheels left,then utilized the remaining pocket as a finger hold.No matter.Hong was so strong he probably could have punched a new hole in the rock! We didn't call it Tick Fever by the way.
Cheers,Jeff Newsom Apr 25, 2008
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
The best 11a in LCC by default. Still fun though. Apr 14, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.11a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.11a
Great route!!!Pick your rest spots on this route. I found one, there was another for sure. Very pumpy and consistent throughout. Jun 4, 2005