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Routes in The Sail

Bong Bong Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brass Monkey, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Castaway 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Dutchman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ream Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wilson-Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jack Roberts, 1976
Page Views: 2,849 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Aug 10, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The beautiful, thin, left angling, Mexican Crack-like fissure disecting the middle of the Sail. I've never led this...but I aspire to! The thin crack traverse is 10+, then some 5.8 R climbing above on some suspect flakes. If you're not a hardman, or at least, not a brave one, you can toprope this. Take some Loooong slings for blocks/horns at the top. Can barely rap off this with a 60M rope once you''ve slung the horns. Some anchor bolts on the face just below the top would sure be a nice addition.

EDIT: I did attempt this lead back in the 00's, but cant claim a redpoint. Not calling it stout for it's grade, just a little over my head in my prime. But the hard part protects well, give it a go, or rehearse on TR first.

Protection

Mostly small nuts and cams

Photos

Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
 
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
 
Wow. This thing is rad! Possibly my favorite single pitch in the canyon. The finger locks are really good and there's good friction when the feet get thin. Oct 27, 2016
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Such an awesome route! Buttery finger locks, and a fun layback section.

Flakes at the top are definitely suspect. You can find slopey face holds left of the looseness and avoid pulling on them, but even if they ripped off it wouldn't be too too bad, the loosest rock is right at the beginning of the runout. May 16, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Wow. I'll say it again. Wow. My inner Dutchman has been awakened. I absolutely loved this route. The approach is long, but this climb is stellar. If you've done the coffin, sasquatch, and mexican clean, this is your next LCC finger crack victim. Super fun. It is quite pumpy. No great rests and finding feet is tricky, but the crack is really clean and the locks are key-worthy. Great pro for the first 3/4. Bring doubles in .3 to .75 and maybe one #1 and #3 camalot. The runout face above the crack is, well, runout. I wouldn't call it hard but I found myself highstepping and such. You get a decent rest on a small bushel of sorts before embarking runoutly upwards on flexy flakes and roundy sharp rock. I would estimate the top 1/4 of this route to be devoid of pro, which is about 20 feet or so. It does get easier towards the top though. Climb Wilson-Love or Big Bong first to scope it out if it worries you. Superb. Jul 9, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c PG13
One of the best routes in the canyon. Stunning crack with heady runnout face at the top. Well worth the walk over and over again. Apr 16, 2011
Michael Buchanan
  5.10 R
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10 R
Some history (From the original Wasatch Granite Guidebook by Dave Smith, Waqstach Rock Climbs by Smoot and Ellison and the Ruckman Guide):

First ascent by Jack Roberts (solo[!!!!!]). This route was rated 5.9 back in the day, up graded to 5.10 by Smoot and Ellision, then to 10c w/ 5.8 runout climbing above. I thin that we are standing on the shoulders of the old school giants wondering where to go next! Is this route 10c? I dont know. The finger locks are just as good as other finger locks around (Crack in the woods, the coffin) and the pro in the crack is great. The 5.8r is definitely in your face. The climbing is classic LCC face (reminiscent of the Egg or the Viewing on the coffin) but super ricey rock. I pulled off a small hold and almost blew it! I wouldn't call it 10c though. The crack is awesome, and the position on the Sail is unbelievable. Cant believe the FA was solo in 1976 and rated 5.9! Hardmen back in the day.

Agree with ZachB, if this route was on Crescent, the Gate, Pentapitch, Bong Eater or any crag with a chill approach it would clean up and people would be talking about it like they talk about Mexi Crack, the coffin or any other 3 star route. Sep 2, 2010
ZachB
 
ZachB  
 
Really great route. If this was an easier approach there would be people lining up to climb it.
Although most of the gear is on the small side, a #3 or #4 camalot is helpful for the wide crack near the bottom before moving into the main crack. Nov 19, 2009