Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jack Roberts, 1976
Page Views: 3,816 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Aug 10, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The beautiful, thin, left angling, Mexican Crack-like fissure disecting the middle of the Sail. I've never led this...but I aspire to! The thin crack traverse is 10+, then some 5.8 R climbing above on some suspect flakes. If you're not a hardman, or at least, not a brave one, you can toprope this. Take some Loooong slings for blocks/horns at the top. Can barely rap off this with a 60M rope once you''ve slung the horns. Some anchor bolts on the face just below the top would sure be a nice addition.

EDIT: I did attempt this lead back in the 00's, but cant claim a redpoint. Not calling it stout for it's grade, just a little over my head in my prime. But the hard part protects well, give it a go, or rehearse on TR first.

Protection

Mostly small nuts and cams

Photos