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Routes in The Sail

Bong Bong Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brass Monkey, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Castaway 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Dutchman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ream Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wilson-Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Wilson and Love....duh! 1962!
Page Views: 2,273 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Aug 10, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The original route starts near the right edge of the sail, angles left to reach a wide groove, that leans right, then traverses left at the end. An exercise in rope-drag managment, although a direct 5.7 r-ish start can help avoid the problem. Must do!

Protection

Bring some big stuff and plenty of long runners.
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Ha! I love LCC 5.8. It feels harder than maple canyon 5.12. There are 3 distinct sections to this route, the left traverse, the right traverse, then another left traverse. The start is indeed a bit tricky with pro, but my buddy got in a good small nut. The right traverse is classic groove weirdness till you hit a cool undercling flake, then it easy huge jug climbing till the last left traverse. Anyone find themselves cursing on this last section? I love the Ruckman guide. It calls it "5.8 awkward". Perfect description if you know what that means. Wideness prevails but you can get #3/#4 camalot size gear waaaaaay back in there. Thrutch up 10 or so feet using some type of magic for technique till a glorious pizza sized chickenhead appears for a foot. Ah, 5.8. This isn't the gym! Jul 9, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
There used to be at least one and maybe two pitons at the start. A 0 Metolius is pretty useless before the first crux, a 00 and maybe some micronuts might hold a fall. I think it would be nice to put a bolt there (it would be used for Castaway too). Ream Crack can be used as an alternate start if you brought up enough C3's. Save a couple of them (or larger) for the top though. Mar 16, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
This is stiffer, imho, than Satan's Corner, and felt about on par with any of the other 5.9s in LCC. What a phenomenal pitch of climbing! Sep 4, 2013
samg Gileadi  
 
Great! Mar 14, 2010
EAS Fett
  5.8+
EAS Fett  
  5.8+
Definitely satans corner 5.8 stout. I wondered if there was a pin at the start too. There are a lot of good places for a pin but have to settle with pnuts. The rock is a bit gritty but still climbs well. Old school fo sho, respect Wilson/Love... and the goat that lives there. Nov 25, 2009
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
 
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
 
I founds spots for a 0 and 00 ultralight Tcu on the start, sewed the rest up with small stoppers for sure. I recommend Tape. Oct 16, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
Burly! I don't think the smallest C3 or alien would fit anywhere at the start. It's nuts or nothing, and the placements are far from satisfying. The climbing isn't too hard but a bit insecure with high steps and gritty rock, and a fall would be disastrous. I wonder if there used to be a piton on that traverse.
Anyway, once in the groove, it stays stout. The OW on top will eat you alive. Tape up, bring large stuff (I placed everything up to 4.5) and prepare for a fight.
Rope drag isn't an issue with long runners. Solid 5.8, Satan's Corner style. Dec 1, 2008
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
I followed this route a few months ago, and it was sweet. the leftward traverse at the beginning is kind of hard to protect without smaller aliens or C3 or equivalent, although you probably could get some bomber small stoppers in if you are a passive-master. definately worth doing this guy, and the view is amazing. stays interesting to the end. I think we had a 60m rope and were able to rap off the top just fine. Jun 12, 2008