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Routes in The Sail

Bong Bong Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brass Monkey, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Castaway 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Dutchman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ream Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wilson-Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: , 110 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Libby Ellis
Page Views: 144 total · 1/month
Shared By: ASENDR on Nov 19, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the line of bolts on the east end of the Sail. Start directly below the first bolt ,which is about 20 ft. up in a shallow dihedral ,crossing the diagonal crack start for the Wilson- Love route. Some pro can be had in this crack, providing some psychological comfort. 5 more old school bolts pleced apart in old school fashion will get one to the top. There is a 1/4 bolt and a pin just below the top, when backed up I found to be a suitable top rope anchor, providing that one is using a 70 meter rope ,as I do not think a 60 will reach the ground. With a little more traffic, some new fat bolts, and a beefier anchor, this route may deserve anothe star. Great moves, interesting climbing and a spectacular position will reward one for the long approach.

Protection

5 old bolts and some pro for the start

Photos

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Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
Fun route, but definitely needs bolts replaced! Rusty buttonhead drive ins!My advice: top rope this one! Nov 23, 2005
T_jones
Salt Lake
 
T_jones   Salt Lake
 
Can place a # 2 friend before the first bolt and a # 1 friend in the flake in between the second and third bolt. This route was alot like leggo my eggo...except there were 2 crux moves that made it super fun to lead. Mar 22, 2008
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
  5.9+ R
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
  5.9+ R
A single 60 works to get you to the ground from the bolt/pin anchor. At least I'm pretty sure we were using a 60. Wasn't my rope. You may want to take sacrificial tat up there with you for the anchor. The bolt for the anchor is new, hopefully the pin will be replaced with a new bolt someday. Fun. Reminded me of leading "The Viewing." I used a .4 (between bolts 2&3) and .5 (before the 1st) camalot in addition to the bolts. May 31, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Several of the bolts still need to be replaced. Easy to TR from the top though. Mar 16, 2015

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