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Routes in The Sail
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Apple Jelly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bong Bong Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brass Monkey, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Castaway 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Flying Dutchman T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Ream Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spaceland T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wilson-Love T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | , 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Stuart Ruckman & Libby Ellis |
| Page Views: | 863 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | ASENDR on Nov 19, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is the line of bolts on the east end of the Sail. Start directly below the first bolt ,which is about 20 ft. up in a shallow dihedral ,crossing the diagonal crack start for the Wilson- Love route. Some pro can be had in this crack, providing some psychological comfort. 5 more old school bolts pleced apart in old school fashion will get one to the top. There is a 1/4 bolt and a pin just below the top, when backed up I found to be a suitable top rope anchor, providing that one is using a 70 meter rope ,as I do not think a 60 will reach the ground. With a little more traffic, some new fat bolts, and a beefier anchor, this route may deserve anothe star. Great moves, interesting climbing and a spectacular position will reward one for the long approach.
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