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Routes in Crescent Crack Buttress

3 Amigos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A Kat That Grumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to My Roots T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.P.O.S. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Closet Lycra T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack in the Woods T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crank in the Woods S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Final Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Chockstone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunting Gringos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
If Looks Could Kill S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Interplanetary Voyage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey to the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kutcorner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lazarus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lunge or Plunge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missing Link T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Multiplicity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Jive Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Razor's Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ross Connection, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ross Route, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rotert's Rooter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown right S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waterslide S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who's On First S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Pete Gibbs and George Lowe 1970
Page Views: 32,953 total · 168/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 9, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Mexican Crack is located toward the west side of Crescent Crack Buttress. It is the obvious left slanting crack seen from the road. Usually crowded. Start in dihedral up to jugs and pull onto face, delicately run up the seamy cracks to the leftward turn, smear feet below crack with hands in the crack to the chains. Good foot work saves the arms for the top of the route.


Set of stoppers and camalots up to #2 with a few runners.
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
What a great varied route. It starts off with a tricky dihedral (use your head), some nice vertical grooves, and then the finale. Pick your stances and place your pro in the diagonalling crack smartly. There are many resting stances. This route epitomizes a classic route. It has length, varied climbing, exposure, good rock, and consistent difficulty. Aug 29, 2004
The diagnaling crack up top is quite sensational. Most definitely a worthwhile outing. Apr 8, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
I did this route yet again, and my partner brought up a good point that I would tend to agree with: If the route is a 5.10a and the crux is on the diagonalling crack, yet arguably the hardest move, in reality, is the dihedral, is the climb really a 5.10a? What I am getting at is that the 5.9 move feels a lot harder. I know, I know, quit my whining, but I have watched more people struggle on the start than anywhere else. That is my 2 cents on this one. May 3, 2005
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
I feel the same way as Nathan about the start of this climb. For me, the dihedral is much more difficult than anything else on the entire climb. However, in my case, I can definitely attribute this to two things: (1) height, it is a long reach for my short legs, and (2) flexibilty, in that I don't have any. Other people I know have little to no problem with the start, many of them much smaller than me (which is how I know that it isn't just height).

Can't wait to climb it again! May 3, 2005
That's a classic LCC 5.10a! like most of the routes in the canyon...things rated 9+, tend to be harder than things rated10a. Gotta love those old school can can just hear the old dogs standing around scratching their heads in 1975..."I dunno man...that was pretty hard, but not the hardest ever (5.10 at the time being pretty high end)...better rate it 5.9 so people don't think we're wusses!"

Anyone else notice this? if you can climb 10a gear in LCC you will climbe alot harder elsewhere. As for another route like this, I think of Bloody fingers in the city. 10a with a soild 10b bouldery start? Still 10a? I guess???............ May 30, 2005
I have found that a sweet palming move with the right hand in the bottom dihedral makes things a bit easier. The move is a little insecure, but there is good pro at your waist. I noticed the ring pin just above the dihedral is deformed! I always clipped the sucker but never wanted to test it out. That thing is older than I am! Oct 4, 2005
vincent pierce
vincent pierce  
I didn't find the dihedral to be too difficult , though it probably is 5.10. My trouble came about eight feet from the top when I got near the chicken head. I grabbed it as a hand hold and was so pumped that I lost it while making my move. Had a nice sized fall from that one! Guess I should have just stuck with the jams! Nothing like falling two moves from the top. Oct 6, 2005
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
this was my nemesis when i first started climbing. took me 3 or 4 tries to get it clean, and many more to do w/grace Jan 25, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Ahhh, tried to onsight it today, and got spanked by that corner. Fell twice onto a blue metolius right before the hard part was over. Then it started to rain, and we had to bail. So frustrating, I'm going to be feeling like a chump the rest of the day. Oct 5, 2006
Duncan Murray
Salt Lake City
Duncan Murray   Salt Lake City
In 2002 I belayed a friend who used some sort of a head smoosh bringing his legs left and up making his body horizontal. I stood there mouth open thinking his neck would snap.

I agree with Bobby, this start is just something you have to push through, but the dihedral is the hardest part! Jan 26, 2007
Charles Dalgleish
Salt Lake City, Utah
Charles Dalgleish   Salt Lake City, Utah
Gotta say, of all the "classics" in LCC, I really don't consider this one.

Onsight on this required me pulling a Lynn hill ala "the nose". I literally had to turn around and face out of the corner, and stem/shuffle up it. Made for an interesting climb, but one I didn't find all that enjoyable. Jan 28, 2007
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
Beautiful route. Top-roped laps on it today. The dihedral is indeed tricky. I can't say if it's 5.9 or just seems to be one of those challenges that granite throws at you now and again. The middle section a little tenuous...especially in warm, direct sun. The angling crack is positive and sensational. There are such good fingerlocks and thin hands in it! Quickly moving my feet from blob to blob, and occasionally using the crack for my right foot, was key for it not being too pumpy. Can't wait to do it again. Apr 7, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Did this route again yesterday. I can say with no shame, I have no clue what I'm supposed to be doing in that dihedral. I flailed, eventually got past it. The diagonalling crack was Easy, compared to both the dihedral and the tenuous face/seam middle section, at least for me. The crux is short, and the feet aren't really that bad, I had right foot in the crack most of the way too. Jun 9, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
D.Shiembob, if you really want to know...try climbing the dihedral like a chimney (i.e. put your whole body/butt into the wall on the right, use both feet on the face holds out left, and can get no hands rests for most of the hard section! Then simply use the bomber face holds on the left up high and lunge for the horn...
Once you get it down pat, don't even bother putting gear in until you get that makes for a much smoother rope run... Jun 12, 2007
Listen to Glen. When in this positions, there is also a really nice wrist lock/fist jam where the crack widens out. Jun 19, 2007
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
I love this route and its three distinct sections. Its nice to get the hard part over early and then be able to enjoy the rest! I do the chimney technique too, but must be using my shoulder more than my head cause I always end up with a rasberry there regardless of how many shirts I have on! Talked to someone who said they face climbed around the right to the horn but can't remember how hard they thought that was. I also like the old rating cause 9+ is always harder than 10a! Oct 16, 2007
Texaswall Seale
The Woodlands, TX
Texaswall Seale   The Woodlands, TX
I'd say I onsighted this today, but after devouring the previous comments prior to climbing it, I can only claim a redpoint (if I claimed a flash, my partner would likely expose me as a fraud, as she timed the ascent with a calendar).

I did garnish my shoulder with the raspberry that Stan is familiar with, and feel like my future ascents should be less anxiety provoking through the start. It's the middle that proved mentally challenging. I'll take strenuous over tenuous most any day, thus I enoyed the business in the signature diagonal much more than the balancey midsection.

Pro is generally good as noted and never bigger than a #2 BD. I'd tell you how many pieces I actually placed, but I'm not giving out free laughs today. You can use relatively few draws/runners, however, mostly needing length only when you turn the two "corners".

A note on the approach. The trail from the UTA parking lot has been improved and seen some traffic. It adds minimal length and gets your vehicle off the road. Just don't be tempted by any premature left turns and the braided bouldering paths. Aug 6, 2008
Sandy, UT
sfotex   Sandy, UT
Wow. What a lead. What an awesome climb.
Is it just me, or does the horn you go to at the start feel loose? Sep 17, 2008
So so so so good!

To prevent rope drag, I didn't protect until I'd pulled out of the dihedral. It gets up there, but I was sure happy not to have the drag as I was getting close to the top. Superb line. Oct 25, 2008
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
Gotta say that if the start is 5.9+ then the diagnaling crack is 5.6/5.7ish!!! I laughed my ass off when I saw it was rated 5.10a and the start 5.9+.

It's funny when people say that a climb is easy if you have the moves dialed. 5.12's are pretty easy when you have them totally dialed. My thoughts are that our F.A. forfathers were just a-holes. Apr 15, 2009
Alec LaLonde
Alec LaLonde  
Make sure you pull the rope from below the anchors rather than from below the dihedral -- we got ours stuck today behind the horn and it required some creativity to retrieve... May 10, 2009
anybody know anything about the direct start? Nov 3, 2009
steven sadler
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Did this climb the other day and got the onsight. the trick to the beginning is to stem. I stemmed through that whole beginning part and it wasn't too bad. It protects really well too. I placed a number 3 down low with no runner and didn't have any rope drag. For me the crux was the vertical part after the dihedral. The slanting crack was amazing and hard because i was so tired by then. I didn't place anything bigger than a .75 BD other than the number 3 down low. Jun 20, 2011
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
I followed Glen's chimney advice, and sent it bottom to top. Love the old piton. Aug 5, 2011
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
@Steve Santora - THe Direct slab start goes somewhere in the 10a/b ballpark I believe. I've only tr'd it though, but it wasn't that bad. Some dime edging, and crystal pinching. There's an old chopped bolt hole you can see if you stand on some of the rocks just underneath it. Sep 20, 2011
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
This climb is worth every star it gets...absolutely fantastic. I've heard this climbed talked up a lot but in my opinion it is a very doable 5-10a if you can handle slab and crack moves and an awkward dihedral's not as hard as some of the other old school ratings in the canyon. I brought a single rack with doubles in BD .4, .5, .75, and 1. That seemed to be more than adequate. Climb this route!! Oct 25, 2011
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
This climb is fantastic! Definitely a must do if you are in the area. Don't be scared, JUST DO IT! This 10a is probably easier than some other 5.9s in the canyon. Apr 9, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
Work the dihedral with a combination of stemming, chimney, and a throw to the jug. Double cracks go easier then they first appear but take small pro (TCU's 2 and 3's)... That being said, the diagonal handcrack is the bee's knees. Best route on the buttress! GET it! Apr 10, 2012
benjaminleaton Eaton
Sandy, UT
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
I will agree that this route is a 5.10a...but it's not a gimme. It's on "old-school 5.10." You have to work for it. It will throw a little of everything at you. The comments about the beginning being 5.9 confuse me because that beginning is very stout and labor intensive. Aug 30, 2013
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
There are two types of people in this world- MexiCANs and MexiCAN'Ts. Be a MexiCAN my friends!! May 30, 2015
Feels like a 10d. I just got off Sasquatch (9+) and, relatively speaking, Mexican Crack is so much harder. Felt like an 11a start, and then sustained 5.10d climbing thereafter. I really struggled. Placed at least a hundred cams. Took at least as many times. I'll be back for this route after some serious training. Made a fool of myself. Sep 18, 2015
madskates   slc
Me and a friend made a little video of the route, enjoy! Dec 7, 2015
Found nuts at the base 11/4. Message me with specifics and I will get it back to you. Nov 5, 2016
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
Tyler N   Salt Lake City, UT
Loved this climb, definitely 5.10 (it's a step up from climbs like Sasquatch, Gordon's, Touch Up, etc). It's got a little bit of everything, incredibly fun! Nov 21, 2016
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
Going up to mexican crack tomorrow to bolt it since the gear seemed questionable in spots but i'm missing a couple hangers. Does anyone have two or three i could barrow? Jun 21, 2017
Ye Tian
Salt Lake City, Utah
Ye Tian   Salt Lake City, Utah
Glad there were no bolts. Only a fixed nut was there. Aug 21, 2017
brad munk
Cleveland, Ohio
brad munk   Cleveland, Ohio
Were bolts actually added to this route?? Aug 24, 2017
As of yesterday there were not bolts except for the well-placed chain anchors on top. The dihedral wasn't bad. I honestly wouldn't rate it any higher than a 9. I definitely don't think it's the crux. It seemed to me a balancy sequence in the middle was...but that's just the opinion of a sport climber who converted to trad. Total money bottom to top! Aug 25, 2017
Fernando Cal
Fernando Cal   CA, UT
awesome route, slippery ad bouldery start but fun. stuck nut about 10 feet past the horn, below a piton Aug 20, 2018

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