GPS: 40.573, -111.777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,069 total · 37/month
Shared By: Jeff B on Mar 31, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the first main ice climbing area in LCC. It's on the South side of the canyon and consists of one main flow called Scruffy Band (WI-3) right in the center of the granite slabs, and another WI-2 or 3 apron that leads up to an overhang of granite with some impressive curtains and pillars of ice ("Hanging Pillar" WI5-6). There are a handful of other routes right next to these main two, but they rarely come in thick. Usually very thin routes. The time of year this ice comes in varies greatly from year to year. Usually by Christmas the main line is in thick enough for good screw placements. Since it's at a lower altitude, the ice often comes in sporadically, especially during warm winters. Getting around to the top of these routes to top rope wouldn't be very easy so it's a good beginner area as long as you have someone that can lead the routes. Once someone leads them, then you can top rope very easily. There are some pitons about half way up Scruffy Band for good tope roping.

Getting There

You can park at the bus stop at the mouth of the canyon and cross the road, or park at the head of the Temple Quarry Nature Trail. It's just south of the junction of Highways 209 and 210. From this parking area, follow the nature trail until you find a tangent that drops down into the creek (don't worry, I've never seen water in the creek). There is a trail up the opposite bank that goes straight up to the ice. Approach time is about 20-30 minutes.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Scruffy Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 28
Scruffy Band
Trad, Ice
WI3-4
 5
Scruffy Band Left
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scruffy Band
 28
WI3 Trad, Ice
Scruffy Band Left
 5
WI3-4 Ice
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Craig Pierson
Salt Lake City, UT
Craig Pierson   Salt Lake City, UT
I found an icetool below Scruffy band recently and would like to get it back to it's rightful owner. If it's yours let me know how to get in contact. Jan 3, 2017