Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Ice, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||1,091 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Mar 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1: Climb the icy right side of the gully. The low angle snow to the left is officially "out of bounds". Face into the ice and make sure to get your tools high enough that you can engage your front points in the steeper ice, and traverse to the left and up. Ice can be thick enough to take a variety of screws, but, dont pass up any protection opportunities. Also, take care as some of the lower angle surface ice can be thin: no need to crash through into the bottomless sugar snow. Nearly half way, there will be a boulder down low (folks with bad backs should probably avoid this pro, and, maybe this route in general) that can take an SMC shallow angle piton (pick one up on ebay, plan ahead). A couple of moves up, and, the climb really starts to get interesting. A steeper bulge can be surmounted directly (straight across from the tall tree in the gully). You only need to hang in there for a few moves straight up, and, the climb ends at a nice rocky hole with a semi-hanging belay stance. Drink in the nauseating abyss.
Belay: Sling the loose, pointy boulder (hoping that its sorta frozen in place) and back it up with a piton in a loose block in the back of the mini cave. Note: this would be an ok spot to bivouac should the need arise, although, if it were really stormy, it might get pretty grim. Best bet would be to bail to the Cotton Bottom.
The git off: We thought it prudent, slightly more sporting and less hairball (than trusting the dubious belay anchors) to down climb through the crux, step across the snowy gully to the tree, and from here, either walk back down the snow ramp, or, down climb should the ice not be too hammered from the ascent. Take care. Spraining an ankle on this would be really, really embarrassing.