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Routes in Scruffy Band

Contact Gully T WI3-4
Not My Fault WI2-3 M3
Scruffy Band T WI3
Scruffy Band Left WI3-4
Scruffy Band Right T WI3
Table Scraps WI2-
Upper Dagger T WI3-4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 240 ft
FA: Probably BS, back in the day
Page Views: 1,178 total, 10/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A nice variation especially if the main Scruffy Band is crowded. By staying as far left as possible, you can avoid knocking ice on any party climbing Scruffy Band.

The initial low angle slab of ice is sometimes thick enough to allow a belay at the base of the steeper ice (as well as a handy down climb if using a single 70m rope). Several (4 or 5) steep sections of ice punctuated by lower angle stances eventually joining Scruffy Band on the far left side of the low angle apron below the final steep pillars.

Take care if you cross over to the right in the shallow gully near the top (below the final pillar(s)) if there is a party below on Scruffy Band. Dislodged ice tends to funnel right down into the main narrow section of Scruffy Band and if someone was on that section, falling ice would mostly likely nail them.

Location

Located just on the other side of the rock buttress left of the standard start to the Scruffy Band.

Protection

Standard ice screw rack with a mix of longer and shorter depending on the thickness of the ice.

Belay at the short pine tree at the top of the route. Can rappel to the top of the low angle slab with a single 70m rope, then down climb to the ground. Or, rappel with two 60 meter ropes all the way to the ground. Or, rappel (or carefully down climb) to the bigger pine tree above the overhanging rock, then, rappel from there to the ground with a single 70, or double 60's. Or, walk off left.

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