Elevation: 7,643 ft
GPS: 40.577, -111.703 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,800 total · 472/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Tanners Gulch had one route published in 1996 when the Ruckman guidebook was released. Today it holds enough routes to keep one busy for a season. The rock is broken and dirty in some places, other places the rock is absolutely killer.

The gulch runs north/south. The majority of the routes face East so morning sun is sure bet. There is one wall that faces West so chasing sun is an option. However the gulch goes into the shadows around 3pm in the summer and 2pm in the fall.

In the Winter and Spring months avalanche hazard may be an issue. The gulch is fed by the massive upper headwall in Tanners, only go if the snowpack is stable, not much running room in that gulch if it were to avalanche.

Once you get up into the guts of the gulch footing becomes loose and the talus unstable in places, watch your step. In the melting months we have heard and seen rocks whizzing and flying by, this place is about as alpine one can get this close to the LCC road.

The views are unbeatable up here. You have the mighty Pfeifferhorn, Red Stack, White/Red Baldy peaks to the south. And the sounds of traffic are dim.

While climbing in the area we ran across 2 pieces of webbing, the only sign of climbers. One was found on the Phillip Drummond Ledge on the route Diff'rent Strokes, the other was found on the Hidden Heavenly Slab around the pine tree in the left corner. Both appeared to be left from routes that follow big broken corner systems, but if you have any info please share it!

Getting There

Drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon (HWY 210). Follow the signage to Tanners Campground, once you get to the campground go another 100 yards up the road and park on the large shoulder before the bend (east side of road). Across the HWY at the bend is a UDOT sign indicating Tanners Slide Path, walk behind this sign, there is a trail here. Follow the trail (faint in some spots) to the drainage, drop down in and walk up the gulch. There seems to be a better trail on the West side of the stream.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tanners Gulch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
North of Heaven
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
37 Problems but a Piton Ain't One
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
Ornery Miss Garrett
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Lonely Sinner
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Golden Plates
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
East Coast Insecurities
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
All About Volume
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 134
Minions of Chaos
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
36 Yarrgs
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 56
The 7th Way
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 25
Pirate Treasure
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Apparition
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 33
Specter
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
White Lines
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Heisenberg
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North of Heaven Hidden Heavenly Slab
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
37 Problems but a Piton Ain… Specter Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ornery Miss Garrett Diff'rent Strokes But…
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Lonely Sinner Hidden Heavenly Slab
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Golden Plates Hidden Heavenly Slab
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
East Coast Insecurities Hidden Heavenly Slab
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
All About Volume Hidden Heavenly Slab
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Minions of Chaos Minions of Chaos Area
 134
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
36 Yarrgs Booty Wall Area
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The 7th Way Hidden Heavenly Slab
 56
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Pirate Treasure Booty Wall Area
 25
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Apparition Specter Wall
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Specter Specter Wall
 33
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
White Lines Booty Wall Area
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Heisenberg Booty Wall Area
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tanners Gulch »

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