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Areas in Tanners Gulch

Booty Wall Area 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Diff'rent Strokes Buttress 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
Divas and Witches Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hidden Heavenly Slab 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Minions of Chaos Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Skinny Puppy Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Specter Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 7,657 ft
GPS: 40.577, -111.703 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,597 total · 295/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Tanners Gulch had one route published in 1996 when the Ruckman guidebook was released. Today it holds enough routes to keep one busy for a season. The rock is broken and dirty in some places, other places the rock is absolutely killer.

The gulch runs north/south. The majority of the routes face East so morning sun is sure bet. There is one wall that faces West so chasing sun is an option. However the gulch goes into the shadows around 3pm in the summer and 2pm in the fall.

In the Winter and Spring months avalanche hazard may be an issue. The gulch is fed by the massive upper headwall in Tanners, only go if the snowpack is stable, not much running room in that gulch if it were to avalanche.

Once you get up into the guts of the gulch footing becomes loose and the talus unstable in places, watch your step. In the melting months we have heard and seen rocks whizzing and flying by, this place is about as alpine one can get this close to the LCC road.

The views are unbeatable up here. You have the mighty Pfeifferhorn, Red Stack, White/Red Baldy peaks to the south. And the sounds of traffic are dim.

While climbing in the area we ran across 2 pieces of webbing, the only sign of climbers. One was found on the Phillip Drummond Ledge on the route Diff'rent Strokes, the other was found on the Hidden Heavenly Slab around the pine tree in the left corner. Both appeared to be left from routes that follow big broken corner systems, but if you have any info please share it!

Getting There

Drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon (HWY 210). Follow the signage to Tanners Campground, once you get to the campground go another 100 yards up the road and park on the large shoulder before the bend (east side of road). Across the HWY at the bend is a UDOT sign indicating Tanners Slide Path, walk behind this sign, there is a trail here. Follow the trail (faint in some spots) to the drainage, drop down in and walk up the gulch. There seems to be a better trail on the West side of the stream.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tanners Gulch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ornery Miss Garrett
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Plates
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
All About Volume
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minions of Chaos
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
36 Yarrgs
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The 7th Way
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Lines
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ornery Miss Garrett Diff'rent Strokes But…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Golden Plates Hidden Heavenly Slab
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
All About Volume Hidden Heavenly Slab
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Minions of Chaos Minions of Chaos Area
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
36 Yarrgs Booty Wall Area
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The 7th Way Hidden Heavenly Slab
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Pirate Treasure Booty Wall Area
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Apparition Specter Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Specter Specter Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
White Lines Booty Wall Area
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Heisenberg Booty Wall Area
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tanners Gulch »

Weather Averages

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The routes here are pretty incredible. Many do have goofy 1st pitches, but not all. Once you get past the 1st 50' or so, the rock is almost always perfect. Additionally, the climbs are very unique for the canyon; angular holds with slabs and roofs and interesting moves. And you can't beat the setting. Approach is quick @ 15-20 minutes for all but the lazy. Great Summer crag as it stays cool most of the time, sun or shade.

But don't tell anyone. Aug 22, 2012
The sun deck boulder isn't quite as obvious as it once must have been. Natural shifting of boulders through erosion/avalanche etc, has deposited a number of microwave sized blocks on top, making it less "decky". It still is the first large boulder you come across as the gulch starts to close in from the approach trail--west side of the stream. Aug 10, 2014
That isn't from erosion or snow avalanche. A massive part of the gully released 2 summers ago. Tanners is very alive and active. Aug 14, 2014
Was midway up minions of chaos about 3 weeks ago and had 10-20 second period of rocks to microwave size boulders flying down from overhead. Tyler Philips comment from 2014 is still very relevant. Wear a helmet and be aware. Jul 25, 2018

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