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Memorial Day Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Memorial Day Buttress
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Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Eyebrow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graduate School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High School Drop Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mouth Variation, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pork Shoulder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Small Brain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tombstone Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tombstone Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Elevation: | 6,407 ft | 1,953 m |
| GPS: |
40.5757, -111.7713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 11,760 total · 53/month | |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Sep 17, 2007 | |
| Admins: | Drew Brodhead, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This large and broad Buttress sits several hundred feet above the Bongeater Buttress. These routes historically been put up traditionally and tend to be multi-pitches. Excellent granite prevails, seemingly even up high on the crag.
Getting There
The Ruckman Guide mentions the best approach to it as via skirting the Cresecent Crack buttress and then heading up and west. Another possibility may be to park at the parking lot on the north side of the mouth of LCC and then ascend up and past the Prowser and Bongeater Buttress until the base of the Memorial Day Buttress is reached. Whichever trail you choose, plan on a good little hike of about 45 minutes to get to the base. It's worth it!
Classic Climbing Routes at Memorial Day Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (9)
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