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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Dave and Scott Lunt
Page Views: 9,314 total, 66/month
Shared By: Rob Hyldahl on May 10, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral with......you guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily with a 60m rope from this anchor (the webbing could probably use replacing).

Protection

protection to 2" with extra hand size pieces
jwbertagna
  5.7+
jwbertagna  
  5.7+
The right anchor bolt on this climb is loose as of 11/19/2017. Apart from this incredible route! Nov 19, 2017
Jaron a
SLC
 
Jaron a   SLC
 
If you're solid at the grade, dont bother with the big gear or doubles. A single rack is just fine. Run it out and enjoy the movement. Waaaaaaay better than bushwhack imho. Aug 23, 2017
If you don't mind ticks, you can also setup a TR by leading the heavily vegetated gully left of the climb. Jul 29, 2017
max huecksteadt
Boise ID
  5.7
max huecksteadt   Boise ID
  5.7
This is a pretty fun route, I was surprised to do some actual splitter climbing (no face holds or cheating) on it! If you're a granite/crack wimp like me you can set a TR by rapping from the redneck slab anchors (scramble around back), a 70m worked fine. Sep 15, 2016
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
So good! Hero hand jams. This thing eats #1 and #2 C4's. As others have said, the wide crack at the top would take a #4 C4 and would definitely make that part a bit safer but again, if you are comfortable at the grade, it is not necessary. Sep 7, 2016
BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
  5.7
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
  5.7
60 M worked just fine for us. Make sure to tie stopper knots as there was only a few feet to spare. May 27, 2016
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.7
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.7
Awesome route! Best 5.7 in the canyon for sure. Great varied climbing through all sizes, I was smiling the whole time. Solid rock, shade in the early evening. Jul 29, 2015
Ryan s Nelson
Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.7
Ryan s Nelson   Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.7
This was a fun climb! Great moves with lots of varying crack technique. Very secure protection throughout. I found BD size 1's (reds) to be a very ubiquitous size option throughout the climb. A size 4 BD was great for securing the top wide section as well.

Yesterday (4-19-15) we saw a couple small rattle snakes on the approach where you begin traversing westward along the base of the cliffs just before you descend into the gully. Take caution as the snakes were located under the cliff right next to where you walk/ slump over a boulder (2 feet away). 60 meter rope worked great for this climb. Apr 20, 2015
Scott Stevenson
SLC, Utah
 
Scott Stevenson   SLC, Utah
 
Probably my favorite 5.7 in little cottonwood! Super fun. Gear is great. Nov 5, 2014
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
 
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
 
Very fun climbing. So many gear options with several nice stances for placement. I always have to remember to save my #1 to place in the left hand crack just after the final traverse below the second tree. I once had a very tense moment trying to jam my last and obviously overcammed #2 in that crack during one of my first trad leads. Jun 3, 2014
Kai Larson
Sandy, Utah
 
Kai Larson   Sandy, Utah
 
This route is pretty clean at this point. Not much vegetation on the route, and what is there (2 trees) doesn't get in the way of climbing.

Protection is quite good all along the route. double 1, 2, and 3 Camalots along with some smaller sizes gives you lots of options.

A #4 Camalot is nice for the upper offwidth section right below the chains, but isn't really necessary, as you can sort of squirm up the offwidth quite securely until you can get a bomber hand hold that allows you to safely leave the offwidth and get to the chains.

This may be my favorite 5.7 pitch in LCC. Feb 18, 2014
JPK
JPK  
Climbed this yesterday as my first trad lead! Amazing! Definitely had some moves that made me nervous as a first timer, but I loved every minute of it! I carried a #4...it made the OW before the anchor less nerve wracking, but there is a tree and a beautiful crack below, and chains above, so if you are more experienced, I agree with Travis and Ryan, it is not needed. I enjoyed having my extra #0.75 and #1. Oct 19, 2013
Amazing route (enough said). Definitely some spice here and there but nothing that can't be backed up with a solid nut or cam placement. Scariest part for me was doing the second angled traverse to the ow type crack, the holds here ran out and its a relatively big move. Also the nut here (which I assume someone fell on) was removed. I used the #4 but it really isn't protecting anything too scary so if your more confident than an amateur like me you can definitely leave it at home. Aug 15, 2012
Ryan Goslin
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Ryan Goslin   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
re-climbed this one you can leave the #4 at home just make sure to place gear before the wide sections. Better then bushwhack for sure. The jams are sooooo good. Aug 14, 2011
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
And Zesty it is. Aug 11, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.7
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.7
To Sir Camsalot: the hand crack is Zesty, starts about 40' left of SML with some face climbing. Aug 10, 2011
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
This is truely the next Bushwhack Crack, funner in my opinion. Leave the big stuff at home. A standard rack will suffice, I placed only 1 #3 and really didn't even need it. You'll never fall out of the deep stuff and there are thankgodchickenheads all over to get you to the next hand/finges sized crack. Exciting few moves.

One other variation climbs a perfet BD #2 crack. After the initial tree down low, the route skirts left a little until you get to the wide crack. If you were to just continue left on easy ledges you'd find the highly slanting hand crack. Perfert hand jams for 60 feet with sold feet and you'll get to the top with all smiles. Take multiple #2s for this route or just keep walking up the only one you have. Either way, its a safe, fun, alernative to SML . Aug 10, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.7
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.7
The only thing you should feel humiliated about is your spelling. Arrigent fool, up your game to BCC 5.6 before trying to crush LCC 5.7s. Jun 6, 2011
tenesmus  
 
Anchors Fixed, thanks to Grk and Monkey for helping out. Thanks again to the ASCA. Apr 17, 2011
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
My first pitch of the season, used a single 60m. I was able to rappel down no problem by heading left, just right of the foliage. Mar 22, 2011
DaveHerr
Oakley Ut
DaveHerr   Oakley Ut
Fabulous route for a wide range of climbers. Plus, a good tree dodge while staying in the crack knocks this climb up to an 8 at the bottom. Betsy D did this 5-16 as her first climb ever with a big smile, bravo Betsy!!!!! May 18, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.7
The best first 5.7 crack in the canyon. this thing is five FUN! Apr 26, 2010
tenesmus  
 
Thanks for that bolt warning. I've tightened it twice but obviously it isn't working. I'll replace it in the next few weeks. I need some Mike White assistance to help me figure out why this is happening. Or some LockTite. Oct 19, 2009
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
 
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
 
Super fun climb. This was my first 5.7 hand crack lead. Excellent variety, and a few committing moves. If 5.7 is your grade, I would definitely recommend bringing a standard rack up to BD #4 or possibly #5 (for off-width at very top of climb). In addition, make sure you have at least one extra in sizes .5 through #3. I took 3 hexes to compliment my sparse rack of cams and nuts, but found that the crack didn't really take BD hexes well. Rapped off with two 60m ropes. Oct 18, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.7
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.7
A great climb thats worth checking out! Like Tristan said, it is fun and varied. Finishing on the beautiful splitter makes me want to go climb zesty now. Jun 2, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.7
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.7
Great crack, lots of variety on the moves. This protects well with many different sizes of camalots, and a few runners are handy. The tree/bush is alive and well btw!! May 18, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Great climb. Better than Bushwhack Crack, in my opinion; it's more varied and more interesting. Nov 22, 2008
I thought this was one of the best 5.7's I have ever done. Other than the slightly gritty start, the whole thing is really clean now. I was really impressed with the quality of the climbing. The hand crack right below the imfamous tree was worth the hike alone. Thanks for all te cleaning efforts. Way to go guys! Nov 22, 2008
zoso
  5.7
zoso  
  5.7
Wow. I haven't looked at this for a while.
I helped Dallen clean this line a little. I did cut off a little of the left side of the tree--strictly to make the climbing enjoyable. We decided not to take the tree out completely or to trim the right side as one would almost never want to climb the crack in that direction anyway. We agreed (as do others apparently) the tree added character to the route and should be left. And of course the less gardening the better--for all.
Just thought I'd confess to the holy ones (heh heh). Aug 31, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
point taken

cheers! Aug 23, 2008
Sir, I guess I hold more importance to trees than shrubs. Although that is just a personal opinion and there is no good reason for it. I haven't even done the route, was just looking at the picture and it looks like the tree is a nice, interesting feature of the climb. I was just kidding about the hold, although I usually do use trees if they are growing out of the crack. I don't mean to stir anything up either. I don't have any personal knowledge of the route. From the picture it looks like the tree doesn't get in the way. Aug 23, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
not losing my head at all...thats why i dislike online conversations...too hard to read the other person's intentions. I was just wondering where that line is drawn. i too think some gardening is great and i like how that area has been developed in the last year or so. I was just suggesting something that is going to happen eventually, especially if that area gets the traffic that it should. this route is awesome, but i give that tree 5 years max. Aug 23, 2008
I caution your community in farming out routes. If itÂ’s a danger to climbers then by all means, but if not, why? I would encourage preservation to enhance the canyon for future generations. The tree looks tame to me.... Anderson Aug 23, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Ben, are you arguing that because its a tree, not a bush, then it shouldn't go? Or because it provides a great hold? Like those trees on the first and last pitches of Pentapitch?

And SGileadi, are you aware of how many "bushwhack crack-like" trees were removed from Zesty? A route you've climbed and liked?

I'm not tryin to stir the pot here...but can someone tell me the difference between route maintenance and raping mother nature? Aug 23, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
naw...just opinions. i just figured with all the "housekeeping" going on up there a small bush wouldn't be missed. Guess i was wrong.

and yes, i'm a douche for mixin up sunny-d and grk Aug 23, 2008
tenesmus  
 
geez steve, you're taking a beating on this one. Aug 23, 2008
It is a tree (Mountain Mahogany), not a bush and should not be removed. It makes a nice jug, from the picture it looks healthy. Aug 23, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Are you not Dallen? If not, then I apologize for calling you both a dick and a hypocrite. I thought you were one in the same. Carry on with said tree humping and I'll take my F- for homework done.

edited to note: I don't think dallen to be either a dick or a hypocrite....never met the guy, I was only calling out what I thought (and made an ass of myself in doing so) was a blatent contradiction of ethics based on comments made and I'm going to STFU now. Aug 20, 2008
grk10vq    
"SirCamsalot" wrote then deleted:

"grk10vk wrote; "Thats a good idea, and while we're at it, why not chop down the remaining forrest and pave the trail to the base"

Wow. Coming from a guy who cleaned 30+ feet of LIVE scrub oak from Zesty and (really did) chop down multiple trees that shrowded the base of Sqeeze My Lemon and Errant Edge...that seems like a pretty snotty comment. Are you a hypocrite, or just a dick?"

1. if you're going to quote me, please do it correctly. for starters i know how to spell the word forest.
2. if you did your homework you'd see i had nothing to do with the zesty but express my opinion of it's suggested grade.
3. for the record, i did not cut, lop, axe, or chop a single tree while i was up there. i'm a tree humper not a tree hater.

you know what they say when you assume, it makes an ass out of you and well...just you in this case.

and to answer your question; i am not a hypocrite, the latter however, is up for debate. Aug 20, 2008
grk10vq    
"With so much cleaning going on up here, why not remove that bush in the first 10 feet? this would be a much better climb with out it."

thats a good idea! and while we're at it, why not chop down the remaining forest and pave a trail to the base. Aug 20, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
With so much cleaning going on up here, why not remove that bush in the first 10 feet? this would be a much better climb with out it. Aug 20, 2008
sfotex
Sandy, UT
sfotex   Sandy, UT
Fun climb now that it's mostly defoliated. Worth checking out. Aug 13, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Fun route with some pretty cool jamming. The only vegetation I saw on the entire route was the large tree growing in the crack 10 ft off the ground. A 60m rope from the new anchor reaches the ground just fine.

No stars in the Ruckman guide.....two now that its cleaned up. Mar 19, 2008
tenesmus  
 
This makes a really good first 5.7 lead and is perfect for teaching people how to hand jam. Sews up with a standard rack using nuts and cams but an extra set of hand sizes takes some thought out of it. Bring a few long runners too. That block at the top looks fine but when you move the last cubic foot of the large spike behind that tree a seam appears showing how loose it is. The new anchor also makes it a lot easier and safer to TR Errant Edge with its nice red granite edge climbing. Nov 27, 2007
Sunny-D
SLC, Utah
  5.7
Sunny-D   SLC, Utah
  5.7
The anchor for squeeze my lemon has been replaced and moved about 15 ft higher to finish out the crack. 2 bolt anchor. The tree is just about dead and is growing on a death block at the top of a flake. The block should be moved in the next week. WITH THE NEW ANCHORS ONE 60 METER ROPE MADE IT TO THE GROUND AND THE NEXT TIME WE CLIMBED UP THERE, A DIFFERENT 60 METER ROPE LEFT THE ENDS HANGING ABOUT 10 FT OFF THE GROUND. I am going back again this week with yet another 60 to try to get a better read. A 70 for sure reaches as well as using 2 ropes to get off.
I have also cleaned up the crack so it no longer has any vegetation growing in it. This is a great 5.7 crack climb. Nov 26, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Great climbing that is unfortunately interspersed with a couple of vegetated spots: a small tree and a series of bushes. The bushes being the worst. Very fun jams, and the traverse left climbed great as a hand traverse. This could really use a set of anchors to avoid totally killing the small belay tree. Aug 27, 2006