Connect with Facebook
Another Day At The Office
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Lizard Head Wall
|
|
Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
On the Wings of Maybe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Tangerine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Zesty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Gregg Kirchhoff, Dallen Ward, and Clay Watson, March-April 2008, equipped 2 July by James Garrett |
| Page Views: | 765 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jul 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Another Day At the Office starts on the same ledge as Blue Collar Crack and the many other routes that use it for access. It climbs sharp left up a blunt arete to a quasi chimney that quickly ends, but brings the climber to a steep arete.
Pitch #1: Climb to the arete. A hand crack deeper in the recess to the left goes easy to a big chickenhead and steepening slab requiring an athletic lunge past some fixed protection. Trend rightward and reach a blocky headwall where an undercling allows a traverse to the right to a two bolt belay. 5.11, 25m.
Pitch #2: Climb the awkward thin tight finger crack above the belay until it ends at King Lizard or continue past two bolts on delightful chickenheads to the top of the buttress, building your own belay. 5.10+, 20m.
Pitch #3: This pitch was climbed before the lower pitches of the climb, but sits and waits for you right above it. On the big scrub oak filled belay ledge just 10m above the chain anchors for Red Neck Slab, an east facing slanting crack sweeps up to the top of the main Lizard Head Wall. This may be climbed via OW wide hands from its base or can be approached directly via some steppy cracks and slab that eventually intersect with the difficult and exfoliating layback crack at its top. Walk 2m north on the cut swath of scrub oak "path" to begin. We chose the direct (not having multiple #3-#4 Camalots with us as may be required by the lower portion of the crack) and possibly easier variation to the upper layback crack and two-bolt belay ledge. A crack that works you! 5.10, 20m.
We climbed this traditionally, ground up, without pre-inspection and low down of Pitch #1 not entirely free (thermal and heavy load burn performing our chosen Line Of Work?). Consequently, we were surprised to see the King Lizard around the corner to the left. We also were unaware of the previous very bold ascent leaving no fixed gear of this route that had occurred in April.
Walk about 15m to the west and down the Assumption Of Risk spur and find a two-bolt belay. Two Rope Rappel.
Pitch #1: Climb to the arete. A hand crack deeper in the recess to the left goes easy to a big chickenhead and steepening slab requiring an athletic lunge past some fixed protection. Trend rightward and reach a blocky headwall where an undercling allows a traverse to the right to a two bolt belay. 5.11, 25m.
Pitch #2: Climb the awkward thin tight finger crack above the belay until it ends at King Lizard or continue past two bolts on delightful chickenheads to the top of the buttress, building your own belay. 5.10+, 20m.
Pitch #3: This pitch was climbed before the lower pitches of the climb, but sits and waits for you right above it. On the big scrub oak filled belay ledge just 10m above the chain anchors for Red Neck Slab, an east facing slanting crack sweeps up to the top of the main Lizard Head Wall. This may be climbed via OW wide hands from its base or can be approached directly via some steppy cracks and slab that eventually intersect with the difficult and exfoliating layback crack at its top. Walk 2m north on the cut swath of scrub oak "path" to begin. We chose the direct (not having multiple #3-#4 Camalots with us as may be required by the lower portion of the crack) and possibly easier variation to the upper layback crack and two-bolt belay ledge. A crack that works you! 5.10, 20m.
We climbed this traditionally, ground up, without pre-inspection and low down of Pitch #1 not entirely free (thermal and heavy load burn performing our chosen Line Of Work?). Consequently, we were surprised to see the King Lizard around the corner to the left. We also were unaware of the previous very bold ascent leaving no fixed gear of this route that had occurred in April.
Walk about 15m to the west and down the Assumption Of Risk spur and find a two-bolt belay. Two Rope Rappel.
6 Comments