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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Dallen Ward
Page Views: 3,885 total, 34/month
Shared By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route starts 30 feet left of Squeeze My Lemon. It goes up a patina face to a bolt then a crack that eventually joins SML 10 feet from the old belay tree. Face climb up to a right leaning crack. The crack starts off fingers and goes into a beautiful hand crack that you have to climb to believe. Was full of scrub oak until it was cleaned out. Really fun route that adds to the area. Watch your rappel/lower I use a 70M rope. Some who have climbed say a 60M works, but to be safe tie your end.

Location

30 feet left of the start of Squeeze My Lemon on a cool patina face

Protection

2 bolts and gear from small nuts to #4 BD cam(optional). Bolt and chain anchor at the top

Photos

Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
5.8+
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
5.8+
I agree with 5.8+. Harder than Satan's but easier than Coffin. Mar 18, 2017
Scott Morris
Bountiful, Utah
  5.8+
Scott Morris   Bountiful, Utah
  5.8+
I loved the combination of the patina face at the bottom of this route along with the fantastic crack. Great route. Jun 29, 2016
BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
  5.8
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
  5.8
Size 0 DMM and size 0 C3 protect up to the first bolt. Great climb with some thought provoking moves don't miss this route if you're in the area. We were able to barely get down with a 60M tie stopper knots. May 27, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The funky friction move at the second bolt is a pretty honest 5.8+ move. The crack is crazy good. Placing that many #2s and #3s in a row is something usually reserved for a 5.10 at Indian Creek. Mar 29, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Second only to Satan's as the best 5.8 in lcc Apr 21, 2012
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
ZESTY mantel! Apr 26, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Excellent route. Starting from the lowest point of the face has some fun face moves, the mantle halfway through is really exciting, and the crack is amazing. Can be liebacked easily if you're sketched, or jammed for maximum fun. A micro protects the slab moves at the bottom, then double #1 and #2 to sew it up. A #.5 and #.75 protect the bottom of the crack and the pinched section.
Definitely 8+ and hard to compare with Satan which is steeper but lacks the LCC lean, meaning you get both feet in the crack and you might as well be standing on a ledge. Not so much on Zesty...
Great work on cleaning this one!! Sep 22, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Agreed. Best to start in the SML crack and traverse over. I thought it was 5.8. Harder than Bushwhack or Callitwhatyouplease and easier than Satan's. Whatever the grade, its another one of those cracks in LCC that you wish was 100 ft. longer. Aug 19, 2008
sfotex
Sandy, UT
sfotex   Sandy, UT
Fun climb, I think the SML linkup is the way to do this - you get crack all the way and the traverse over is easy with good feet and protects well. Aug 15, 2008
grk10vq    
rating this one was difficult. i thought a class IV scramble seemed more accurate. Jul 12, 2008
James Garrett
  5.8
James Garrett  
  5.8
This is a good climb. Grades are difficult and so relative for each and every climber, but given that Satans Corner seems to be 5.8 standard for LCC, it puts the 5.8 grade into a proper perspective. Maybe most of you disagree, but Satans Corner is certainly a harder climb for me than Zesty...I just don't see where the "+" comes into the picture for the latter. I mean, Satans Corner may just be a whole number grade harder than Zesty....maybe all pedantics in the final analysis, but I am happy Zesty is here to stay and open to the public for many to enjoy. Consider it a soft or unhomogenous 5.8.
With that said, I have certainly over and under rated a lot of climbs throughout the years Jul 11, 2008
tenesmus  
 
This crack is really fantastic. There is a nice green varnish inside that treats your hands nicely. Dallen worked long hours to clean the trees out of that crack. You can also traverse in from SML to the bottom of this crack for a nice way to finish that climb. Jun 12, 2008