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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Description

The south facing wall that lies between the Altered States Gully and The Fin. Although lacking in shear quantity of climbs, this wall does offer the climber a couple quality crack lines as well as an absolutely delightful slab climb. You will almost certainly be guaranteed solitude as well.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

We followed the approch to Altered States Gully which included finding a cairn about 100 feet to the east of the church archives road. The cairn marks a good trail that puts you high in the gully. We then dropped down the gully until an westward traverse can be made to the next south-facing wall. This is it.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lizard Head Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Sorry, but this has been done and is called Cashmere Crack Mar 22, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Funny how these things work... Done (not by me!!) and the chokestone came out, apparently with a minor nudge. Nov 3, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Done by whom? The chokestone is indestructible for now... Jul 29, 2009
Pretty sure its been done. How solid is the chockstone now? Jul 29, 2009
There is an insane OW around the right of Errant Edge, facing East. I belayed Tristan H. on a very gallant attempt that ended on the main overhanging OW. I know some other guys worked on it later the same day. Does anyone have any knowledge about this line? It seems impossible that such and obvious line hasn't been done by now. If not; wow...what a proud FA it would be. Jul 29, 2009
For those wanting to find a good place to tr some routes this is for you. You can scramble to the right of the butress and back to its top via a ramp system that offers amazing views of Altered States gully. From there head east to the anchor of Redneck slab to tr that and a short rap to the second pitch belay of Blue Collar crack with the faces to either side.

If you go west you can belay (behind a block) your partner as they do the easy 5th class down climb to the anchors of King Lizard to TR that. Jun 30, 2008
Sunny-D
SLC, Utah
Sunny-D   SLC, Utah
There is a better trail that follows the fin approach trail. 50-ish feet from the road cut left by a carn. Follow the trail through the woods. When you come to a big opening with a boulder sitting in the middle of it follow a faint trail, on the west side of the boulder, up the hill through an opening and up to the base of the climbs. 10 minute approach tops. As of right now there are 9 climbs that I know of in this area. 5.5 to 5.11b/c Jun 12, 2008

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