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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Pete Vintoniv
Page Views: 2,472 total, 26/month
Shared By: Bill Bones on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the thin right leaning hand crack that turns OW around the edge from Errant Edge. Though the hand crack at the bottom is a little stiff the business is the off width for sure. Also right leaning and overhanging.

Protection

one set up to #3 BD and 1 #5 and 2-3 #6 cams. Fixed anchor at the top. We placed a stopper for the very first piece off the ground.

Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
I was spit off twice before I donned by cashmere sweater and sent. There is no skill that will allow you to ascend this crack, only sheer determination and hatred. I did absolutely nothing different the first two times I tried this one from my successful redpoint, except that I decided I hated that crack and was not going to be rebuffed again.
Gear: (in order) .5 camalot, .75, #3, #6, #1. You do not need a #4, #5, or 2-3 #6's as the poster suggests. Place the #6, with a long sling, from the block before entering OW, then thrutch for all its worth till you can squeeze into the crack. How far is it? 10 feet. How long will it take you? Could be a half hour. There is no possible way you will be able to place gear in any form till you can get into the squeeze, so don't bother trying. All in all a great climb, as the bottom nor top is trivial. I'd give it lcc .9+ as it was about the most exhausting climb I've ever done. Apr 21, 2012
zoso  
Mevans,

That's unnamed as far as I know.

Make something up and put it on a page for us all to geek at.

Was it any fun? Dec 25, 2011
After trying this a little myself and watching several guys try it, I would LOVE to watch a real send! I don't think the photo does this line any justice. Bravo to all those who have nailed this sucker. Dec 25, 2011
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
  5.11
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
  5.11
Does anyone know what the chimney past a chockstone to the right of this is? It leads to the same new (lower) anchors on Cashmere Crack. I rope soloed it the other day, felt like 5.5/6? Jun 1, 2011
we took it to the top and rapped off the EE anchors, although separate (new) anchors seem completely appropriate. Apr 5, 2010
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
5.11+
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
5.11+
frigging hard. just enough of the wrong size, the wrong lean, the wrong steepness to make it deceptively hard.
way hard I thought. especially compared to the other LCC OW's. nice job guys! Mar 24, 2010
I agree with a high star rating based on the quality of the moves (I have done them on TR but not all clean getting into the OW), it's a shorty but a goodie. If you wanted to compare it to another short LCC 5.11ish offwidth like Gravity's Rainbow that gets two stars here in MP it is so much better in every way (and more difficult).

It overhangs and leans too much for your standard OW thrutching technique, it's mostly not nasty sharp, there are no good feet at the roof and its edge is too blunt and out there to get a hold of or layback, perfect.

Shorty or not I'll wager you'll emerge from Cashmere as much or more exhausted than most other routes at the same grade. That is if it doesn't spit you out right at the get-go.

I'll definitely be back to try and get the redpoint this year! Mar 23, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I got on this thing last year. It destroyed me. Hard, hard OW. Mar 22, 2010
True, who cares about OW grades. I was just commenting on the shortness of the business. That thing sure stumped and defeated me. If you want something longer and maybe more substantial to chew on, try these lines Mar 22, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Who cares? BB thinks it's 4 stars cause he likes OWs, Tene thinks it's no stars cause he doesn't like them. That's what the concensus is for...
Likewise for the rating. Firestarter is 5.9+ right? In a world where Sasquatch is 5.6 it is...
Anyway, there are routes in rock canyon that get 4 stars, why not this one? Mar 22, 2010
Stevie Nacho   Utah
I'm with Durf, most all the offwidths in LCC are sandbagged. He's just keepin with the tradition. Mar 22, 2010
4 stars? whatever! I'm not exactly a fan of the OW but that thing is a two body length thrutch. Hands boulder problem before and some chimneying after. Mar 22, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Sandbagging at its finest!
FA Pete Vintoniv I believe, sometime last fall.
You guys probably got 2nd and 3rd ascent, that thing gets tried quite a bit and has a habit of rejecting people.
Of its many names, green durf is second best IMO... Mar 22, 2010
Sorry, but this has been done and is called Cashmere Crack

Since you did such a good job writing it up, would you mind re-naming it and correcting the route info? Thanks. I thought the word was out about it. Mar 22, 2010