Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Gregg Kirchhoff, Tyler Phillips, 4/08
Page Views: 1,717 total, 15/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This exciting slab continues left from the anchors of Blue Collar Crack. Ascend over a small bulge, gain a stance and begin to climb right and up a seam using large cracks and jams. Continue up and right towards chicken heads to gain the first bolt. Make another good move or two past another bolt to the crux. Clip a bolt and get busy.

Drilled on lead by a few very tall climbers, don't hate us cause we're beautiful.

Location

This clean, thin slab continues left from the anchors of Blue Collar Crack It climbs past a few gear placements and three bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Protection

Three draws, a few large cams and slings. (bd #3, #4 and a #13 stopper for the start are helpful)

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9+
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.9+
Fun way to finish blue collar crack. This pitch packs a lot of different techniques in a nice package that leaves you wanting more. The start protects very well, and you have a really cool crack to help you work your feet up. The slab is pretty featured once the crack runs out and you step out to clip the first bolt. I felt like the slab moves past the first bolt was the crux, but once you make it to the second the climbing seems to get a bit easier. after the third bolt is clipped you get to decide whether you want to chimney to the top or finish on the slab. The chimney option is pretty fun, but the slab would offer more of a challenge for those who want it. Definitely softer and less heady than Errant Edge. Probably only a 10 if you stick to the slab moves. Did not feel gritty to me, though I did have to work to avoid guano to get to the first bolt. Jun 10, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Despite the piles of rat shit at the start this route climbed surprisingly well. Some fun leaning crack moves led me to the first bolt. Being tall I could clip it from a layback stance in the crack. From there it is possible to climb the slab up to the edge like a giant chimney, keeping one arm on the ceiling. Eventually the chimney runs out and you have to make a transition onto the slab for the final two bolts. Still, it's an awesome way to climb part of the route. Dec 9, 2014
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Yes, the anchors of the first pitch. And apparently we did a slight variation of this climb as we continued for about 15 feet up the second pitch of blue collar and made a cool mantle with good chicken heads up to the first bolt, all given that the image of this climb is the correct route direction. Jun 8, 2012
zoso  
You mean 1st pitch of Blue Collar, yes? Jun 1, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Easier than Errant Edge. We climbed Zesty and passed the anchors up top and continued to the anchors above blue collar crack. We then climbed this as our second pitch. Jun 1, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
Actually I believe S. Gileadi climbed a new and independent line that deserves an entry on its own... More on that later :)
Gear recommendation was dead on, I placed all three pieces to get to the bolt. The crux is getting to the 2nd bolt, nice moves on slightly gritty rock that should clean up with traffic. Too bad it's not longer.
We rapped to the anchor of Zesty then to the ground with a 70m Sep 22, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Valid point. If the author of those other routes were known we would probably have named it in association with those other slabs. I think if you climbed that unknown .10+ into Redneck it would be a nice, second pitch to it. I can see how it would be confusing - it was to us as we were trying to sort out the existing lines and the continuity of the crack systems. Jul 1, 2008
James Garrett  
5.10a
Fair enough.....Thanks for the clarification...as I didn't see the red slab post before and I climbed it as the second pitch of something else....guess one may kind of climb anywhere up there, Strong work on the clean up, I just don't have the tenacity for it like you guys...but I appreciate it! Jul 1, 2008
grk10vq    
james, most of us just fly to the begining of this climb making it it's own separate entity.

i can understand your confusion. blue collar crack's 2nd pitch continues through a hand crack system right of its initial anchors.(shaded area-bottom right in picture)
the red neck slab seed was planted after coming up and down blue collar ogling the slab to the left.
red neck slab breaks left from the anchors and up to a stance.
blue collars 2nd pitch is more continuous and follows the more obvious line. (at least obvious to us)
i think the nature of the climbing, for example, the ledges and various branches of direction constitute the need for different routes.

red neck slab is to blue collar crack what betty's 3d is to betty's altered elbow.
its not the latest trend, at least not for me. i'm definately not that cool.
i hope that clears things up a bit. Jul 1, 2008
James Garrett  
5.10a
after doing this pitch some weeks ago, I thought this was the second pitch of one of the other climbs. Is this incorrect? Does every pitch constitute a different route? Is this the latest trend?....to make separate routes rather than one multi-pitch route? Just wondering being a data freak and all. Jul 1, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Although this route was stance drilled you are never more than an arms length or two from a bolt or piece of gear when you have a hard move to do. Put up on a freezing cold, windy day. Much scrubbing revealed a nice slab with cool red varnish. Climbing rice with a drill sucks so we corrected the situation. Jun 30, 2008