Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: A. Mollard & S. Gileadi, 11/2008 (upper section was most likely done on TR earlier)
Page Views: 2,122 total · 15/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start about 20' left of Squeeze My Lemon by a wide dirty crack.
Find a way to clip the 1st bolt (from the starting ledge if you're tall, from the brushy crack otherwise) then slab/lieback the sloping edge of the crack to a big chickenhead. Clip the 2nd bolt then traverse/slab dyno out right to another chickenhead mantle (fun). Follow the chickenhead highway on the edge of SML (no need to get in the crack but this is where you dump your #2) then above aiming for a ramp that eventually curves into a finger traverse. Follow it (great fingerlocks) until the crack pinches out and gets vegetated then tackle the slab above (thin, crux) heading for the mini-roof. Protect under the right side of the roof (avoid its lowest point for gear as it is pretty hollow) then mantle on the crystalline slab and head straight for the chains (exciting).

Refrain from following the finger traverse to its end (grassy) or from traversing right at the roof. The safety of the arête is appealing but it robs you of the best slab moves and makes you wander in uncleaned territory: every hold will break.

Location

Follow the approach to Lizard Head wall. The climb starts 20’ left of Squeeze My Lemon by a tree-filled wide crack (Zesty is on the other side of it).

Descent: lower or rap from the anchors. Some 60m are a bit short so watch the ends of you rope. 70m will bring you peace of mind.

Protection

2 bolts and a set of C4s from #2 down to .4 and C3s down to purple. Double on green and red C3s useful.

Photos