Avg: 1.8 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||A. Mollard & S. Gileadi, 11/2008 (upper section was most likely done on TR earlier)|
|Page Views:||2,298 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal . on Nov 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Find a way to clip the 1st bolt (from the starting ledge if you're tall, from the brushy crack otherwise) then slab/lieback the sloping edge of the crack to a big chickenhead. Clip the 2nd bolt then traverse/slab dyno out right to another chickenhead mantle (fun). Follow the chickenhead highway on the edge of SML (no need to get in the crack but this is where you dump your #2) then above aiming for a ramp that eventually curves into a finger traverse. Follow it (great fingerlocks) until the crack pinches out and gets vegetated then tackle the slab above (thin, crux) heading for the mini-roof. Protect under the right side of the roof (avoid its lowest point for gear as it is pretty hollow) then mantle on the crystalline slab and head straight for the chains (exciting).
Refrain from following the finger traverse to its end (grassy) or from traversing right at the roof. The safety of the arête is appealing but it robs you of the best slab moves and makes you wander in uncleaned territory: every hold will break.
Descent: lower or rap from the anchors. Some 60m are a bit short so watch the ends of you rope. 70m will bring you peace of mind.