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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: C. Watson, G. Kirchhoff, D. Ward, B. Perkins
Page Views: 4,466 total, 39/month
Shared By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the arete up to a high bolt and contiue up to the base of a sweeping crack or begin the climb in the corner on the left using the small crack in the wall for gear. Either way, once at the headwall climb to a comfortable stance and stand in a right sweeping, arching crack the starts horizontally. Follow the crack proper all the way up to a set of anchors. (115 feet)

Pitch 2: Lean right off the anchor and follow a double crack system to a great stance and chain anchor. (65 feet)

This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen.

Location

This Route starts in/on the corner just west of Zesty. Climb the arete proper to a bolt and continue up until you reach the base of the swooping crack or follow the left-side corner up and step on the shelf 50 feet up.

Protection

Standard rack -- nuts, tcu's through 3.5 or 4 BD cam. There are a total of 3 sets and chain anchors for the rap. Can be done with a 60 M rope.

Pitch one can be done from the ground and back using a 70m rope only. If you do this Watch Your Ends as a 70m will just barely get you back to the belay.
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
This is a really cool route. FWIW I still think it is my least favorite of the three moderates with SML being my favorite with it's sweet jams. Way worth doing tho! Good variety of moves. Someone above mentions that the P1 crack is sinker? It is not. But it is really cool and has some solid holds/jams. Oct 25, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.9
Great crack with a good amount of room for variations so you never climb the same line twice. I was too tempted by the redneck slab to do the second pitch of blue collar crack. I thought this was a great way to finish the climb, but I still want to check out the second pitch of Blue collar crack. My buddy got off a little bit on the first pitch. Instead of going up the crack he continued left up the unknown 5.10 crack. Once he got to the steaming piles of guano he traversed back to blue collar. It was a pretty fun variation. Next time I'll give the original line a try. It would be a good idea to bring a saw to minimize the bushwhacking before you get into the main crack in the first pitch. If your not game for gardening its really not that bad to climb around the bushy section. Nice job cleaning out this thing, you can see how much work went into this area. Jun 10, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A #4 is nice to have, but not required. Could be protected before and after easily. There's just a great stance where it's convenient to plug in a #4.

Make sure to bring a good amount of runners for this climb, especially if you do the original start. Also a 70m didn't quite lower me down from the chains. Some funkiness had to be worked out in the chimney. 70m does rap down quite comfortably though (route just wanders a bit). Apr 9, 2014
zoso
  5.9+
zoso  
  5.9+
Yup, the 2nd pitch aint that great. Nov 10, 2013
tenesmus  
 
Mr Hummus, its the Redneck Slab Nov 10, 2013
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
 
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
 
The first long pitch is really fun. Just a few 5.9 moves. The second pitch is not as cool but worth doing to get to the top of the formation. If I were to do it again I would cut left from the anchors and do the slab to the top. Not sure what that variation is called but it looks more exciting. Nov 10, 2013
zoso
  5.9+
zoso  
  5.9+
Totally! Apr 23, 2012
I totally onsighted the shit out of this route the other day. Apr 22, 2012
Michael Buchanan  
  5.9
DO THIS CLIMB! the upper crack is weird but fun, the lower part is sinker with cool moves. Apr 26, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8+
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8+
Fun climb. It looks like the crack is riddled with giant pin scars (even though I know that's not what they are). We did the more direct version that's marked in the topo pic on this page. Nov 22, 2008
Very interesting for sure. We wondered why the crack looked so funky. Fun lead. We also did the line that contines up and left of the main crack. This followed the clean LB's up into the stemming on the right most edge of the huge flake that cuts the chimney in half. Does anyone know what this line is called? Nov 22, 2008
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
This crack is so cool...It would be a shame to have the climb ruined by the scrub oak coming back. Nice work on this route, it is my favorite in the area. Oct 27, 2008
zoso
  5.9+
zoso  
  5.9+
Glad yo enjoyed. Me and Ten noticed the new plantlife as well. We/Dallen will try to whhaaaacckk it soon. To all: Feel free to clean/remove any vegetation. Let the ethics battles begin :) Sep 23, 2008
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Weird stuff for sure, really uncommon features in the crack. The crux was at the top for me when it gets steep and the lock/jams get more spaced. Interesting pro the whole way, not as straightforward as I'm used to. I didn't take the #4 and got away with a #3 and micros.
The scrub oak at the end of the wide section has grown back to a pretty hefty size, makes for a bushwack halfway up the route.
I'll go back up to do the second pitch as we finsished on redneck slab. Sep 22, 2008
tenesmus  
 
It took us about 40 hours to clean this thing out. Hence the name. The crack is serrated in the middle and under what seemed like thousands of years of dirt and debris. Cool finger, hand and fist jamming and strangely, part of the crack lets you do all 3 at once. You don't really need bigger than a #3 camalot (if you don't have one) as there is optional small gear in the crack where that #4 can go. Might be 5.9.

You can easily TR the really cool unknown slab to the right of this route. This is a fun lead and we gave it some much needed tlc and scrubbing. After scrubbing everything down we even swept that whole face with a push broom. Jun 13, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Great route! The crux upper crack is not your typical crack and will sure have you thinking! Nice work on the gardening. Jun 12, 2008