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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1980-Doug Madera and Jeff Butterfield
Page Views: 604 total, 9/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 9, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


I'm pretty sure I know why no one has added this climb yet. It isn't that great. But its worth posting as it is the most obvious feature in the area.
Pitch 1- We climbed the first pitch of zig zag, but according to the Ruckmans you can traverse out to the left onto some grungier looking rock to reach the obvious, gigantic right facing corner. Though not too difficult this pitch is quite serious in my opinion as the gear is spaced. Upon pulling the final roof, traverse to a slung horn at the base of the dihedral. Don't leave the ground without small cams, like purple tcu to red c3 size stuff.
Pitch 2- Climb up the right slanting crack that takes good gear in the finger to hand sized range. Some gardening was in order for our ascent. We linked it all the way to the top from here, climbing through a grungy pod OW thing. You can stop at the intersection of zig zag if you need to and build a belay. A bigger cam in the #4-#5 camalot range is nice through the top sections though not mandatory. Belay off a small tree at the top.


Easy to spot from the road. Obvious huge dihedral.
Traverse left from SML through some jungle to access the slabby start. If you don't see a massive dihedral above you, you are lost. Did I mention the massive dihedral?


Doubles small tcu to #3 camalot. The first pitch is R in my opinion. No fixed anchors, though there was some tat on the horn at the top of pitch one.
Descent: Scramble up through some dead logs to a notch, then downclimb to a tree slung with about 90 pieces of tat. Cut tat. Resling tree. Rap to safety of Altered States Gully with a 70m rope. Go lap SML.


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