Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||1980-Doug Madera and Jeff Butterfield|
|Page Views:||1,051 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Spencer Weiler on Apr 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch 1- We climbed the first pitch of zig zag, but according to the Ruckmans you can traverse out to the left onto some grungier looking rock to reach the obvious, gigantic right facing corner. Though not too difficult this pitch is quite serious in my opinion as the gear is spaced. Upon pulling the final roof, traverse to a slung horn at the base of the dihedral. Don't leave the ground without small cams, like purple tcu to red c3 size stuff.
Pitch 2- Climb up the right slanting crack that takes good gear in the finger to hand sized range. Some gardening was in order for our ascent. We linked it all the way to the top from here, climbing through a grungy pod OW thing. You can stop at the intersection of zig zag if you need to and build a belay. A bigger cam in the #4-#5 camalot range is nice through the top sections though not mandatory. Belay off a small tree at the top.
Traverse left from SML through some jungle to access the slabby start. If you don't see a massive dihedral above you, you are lost. Did I mention the massive dihedral?
Descent: Scramble up through some dead logs to a notch, then downclimb to a tree slung with about 90 pieces of tat. Cut tat. Resling tree. Rap to safety of Altered States Gully with a 70m rope. Go lap SML.