Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 1,163 total · 6/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


From the little ledge belay below Blue Collar Crack, climb up and left on a ramp that leads to a dihedral with a hand crack to a large chickenhead. Do some cool moves left and through the crack system onto an arete. Clip a few bolts on the arete, eventually finishing on the final 6' thin crack for a few short moves. 

OR, you can veer over right to the slightly longer finishing finger crack. This crack is marked by an anchor added by a later party but takes you straight up for a few cool moves, then curves back L to the final anchor.  


Left of the face split by Blue Collar Crack is a low angle ramp that leads to the starting dihedral. You won't be able to see the climber once they hit the arete.  


Standard Wasatch rack with a few long runners and three bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A 70 meter rope lowers you back to the starting belay station.

DESCENT: You can rap from the top anchor down to the anchors for Blue Collar (etc). 

OR, you can climb 2 more bolts above his anchor (maybe from James' route?) for about 20 feet to a big ledge system and walk off. 

This ledge system also leads to the anchors at the top of the Redneck slab if you wanted to TR that or descend that way. Please also see the beta photo for the Lizard Head wall - its #7