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Routes in Lizard Head Wall
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Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cashmere Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On the Wings of Maybe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tangerine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zesty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.7596 |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,435 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
From the little ledge belay below Blue Collar Crack, climb up and left on a ramp that leads to a dihedral with a hand crack to a large chickenhead. Do some cool moves left and through the crack system onto an arete. Clip a few bolts on the arete, eventually finishing on the final 6' thin crack for a few short moves.
OR, you can veer over right to the slightly longer finishing finger crack. This crack is marked by an anchor added by a later party but takes you straight up for a few cool moves, then curves back L to the final anchor.
Location
Left of the face split by Blue Collar Crack is a low angle ramp that leads to the starting dihedral. You won't be able to see the climber once they hit the arete.
Protection
Standard Wasatch rack with a few long runners and three bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A 70 meter rope lowers you back to the starting belay station.
DESCENT: You can rap from the top anchor down to the anchors for Blue Collar (etc).
OR, you can climb 2 more bolts above his anchor (maybe from James' route?) for about 20 feet to a big ledge system and walk off.
This ledge system also leads to the anchors at the top of the Redneck slab if you wanted to TR that or descend that way. Please also see the beta photo for the Lizard Head wall - its #7
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