5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips|
|Page Views:||1,163 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
From the little ledge belay below Blue Collar Crack, climb up and left on a ramp that leads to a dihedral with a hand crack to a large chickenhead. Do some cool moves left and through the crack system onto an arete. Clip a few bolts on the arete, eventually finishing on the final 6' thin crack for a few short moves.
OR, you can veer over right to the slightly longer finishing finger crack. This crack is marked by an anchor added by a later party but takes you straight up for a few cool moves, then curves back L to the final anchor.
Left of the face split by Blue Collar Crack is a low angle ramp that leads to the starting dihedral. You won't be able to see the climber once they hit the arete.
Standard Wasatch rack with a few long runners and three bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A 70 meter rope lowers you back to the starting belay station.
DESCENT: You can rap from the top anchor down to the anchors for Blue Collar (etc).
OR, you can climb 2 more bolts above his anchor (maybe from James' route?) for about 20 feet to a big ledge system and walk off.
This ledge system also leads to the anchors at the top of the Redneck slab if you wanted to TR that or descend that way. Please also see the beta photo for the Lizard Head wall - its #7