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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dallen Ward, Bryce Perkins
Page Views: 696 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This route was created for someone trying to break into Trad climbing It protects well and is easy to climb with great gear placements . All the starts are fun. the 5.5 start is perfect for people trying to break into leading trad. The 5.8 start has no pro but is a really fun way to start the climb. I like this approach better then the original start to Blue Collar Crack


This route sits below the blue collar crack on the lizard head buttress.There are 3 starts to this route depending on what you want to do. Down from Blue Collar Crack and Zesty you will find a 5.8 slab/chicken head start 4 moves. Around the corner there is a 5.5 start and if you walk along the base of the rock you can do a long traverse into the steeper part.5.5-5.6


It is all Traditional Gear standard rack for the beginner nuts, tcu's and hand sized cams 2 bolt anchor on top. great belay for Blue Collar Crack


Hey i'm a new trad leader who was trying to find this rout. I did not see any obvious start while walking the base of the wall. Any pictures, direction would be appreciated for next time. I ended up leading squeeze my lemon instead... awesome rout. Jul 29, 2017
Bruce Koch  
Was pretty difficult to find since you cannot see it very well from the ground. I should have taken a photo. From the bottom of Zesty, you need to traverse at the base of the rock to the left through some brush, or go down and immediately back up to the 5 foot 5.8 chicken head start.

I did the "5.6" traversing start (40 ft down and left) under the roof with the pro high in the obviously cleaned crack. The last 8ft of the traverse before the base of the main crack was tricky undercling/sloper combo. My second (about to do his first trad lead) slipped and took a fall and a swing there because of the dirty slab.

The main crack itself was as advertised, a good easy first trad lead with lots of gear placement options. (once we finally got there!)

Recommend the 5.5 ramp start. Oct 1, 2013
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Super easy route, but pretty darn fun for being so easy. And yeah, like everyone else has said, this things is nice and clean. Nov 22, 2008
I was impressed how clean this was. Great cleaning job. Is an almost perfect first trad lead. Nov 22, 2008
James Garrett
James Garrett  
Do you do gardening piece work? Some spick and spam cracks up there!!
Congratulations. Jun 13, 2008

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