Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dallen Ward, Bryce Perkins
Page Views: 920 total · 7/month
Shared By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route was created for someone trying to break into Trad climbing It protects well and is easy to climb with great gear placements . All the starts are fun. the 5.5 start is perfect for people trying to break into leading trad. The 5.8 start has no pro but is a really fun way to start the climb. I like this approach better then the original start to Blue Collar Crack

Location

This route sits below the blue collar crack on the lizard head buttress.There are 3 starts to this route depending on what you want to do. Down from Blue Collar Crack and Zesty you will find a 5.8 slab/chicken head start 4 moves. Around the corner there is a 5.5 start and if you walk along the base of the rock you can do a long traverse into the steeper part.5.5-5.6

Protection

It is all Traditional Gear standard rack for the beginner nuts, tcu's and hand sized cams 2 bolt anchor on top. great belay for Blue Collar Crack

Photos

James Garrett
  5.4
James Garrett  
  5.4
Dallen,
Do you do gardening piece work? Some spick and spam cracks up there!!
Congratulations. Jun 13, 2008
I was impressed how clean this was. Great cleaning job. Is an almost perfect first trad lead. Nov 22, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.4
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.4
Super easy route, but pretty darn fun for being so easy. And yeah, like everyone else has said, this things is nice and clean. Nov 22, 2008
Bruce Koch  
 
Was pretty difficult to find since you cannot see it very well from the ground. I should have taken a photo. From the bottom of Zesty, you need to traverse at the base of the rock to the left through some brush, or go down and immediately back up to the 5 foot 5.8 chicken head start.

I did the "5.6" traversing start (40 ft down and left) under the roof with the pro high in the obviously cleaned crack. The last 8ft of the traverse before the base of the main crack was tricky undercling/sloper combo. My second (about to do his first trad lead) slipped and took a fall and a swing there because of the dirty slab.

The main crack itself was as advertised, a good easy first trad lead with lots of gear placement options. (once we finally got there!)

Recommend the 5.5 ramp start. Oct 1, 2013
Hey i'm a new trad leader who was trying to find this rout. I did not see any obvious start while walking the base of the wall. Any pictures, direction would be appreciated for next time. I ended up leading squeeze my lemon instead... awesome rout. Jul 29, 2017