Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Page Views: 3,412 total · 26/month
Shared By: Sir Camsalot on Mar 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Follows three bolts up chicken heads and small crystals on the right side of the Lizard Head wall. Spicy.


Right of Squeeze My Lemon on the Lizard Head Wall.


Some pro available between the three bolts.
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
I only Tr'd this but will be back soon for the lead. A fall getting to the second bolt would put you in the trees. Mar 19, 2008
no it won't. Its fine and the climbing right there is nicely featured. This actually starts around the corner in the crack for a move or two before pulling onto the lip. Starting directly under the bolts onto that slab ramp feels kinda like .11a. There is a small cam placement for the juggy (honestly!) runnout to the anchors. Mar 19, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
ah...I thought it started at that right trending ramp just right of Squeeze My Lemon. Fun shizz either way. Mar 19, 2008
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10- PG13
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10- PG13
Wow, one of my favorite slabbin' craggin' leads in LCC. The short rightward trend above bolt 2 (or 3?) sports some wickedness and the final crack provides some welcome forgiveness. I've always started this down left of the bolts- but around the corner sounds like a prime idea. Used to be gear for anchors... probably still is...? Mar 20, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
New (last year??) anchors have been placed up top. Mar 20, 2008
The tree belay for Squeeze My Lemon had grown into that block and loosened the last foot making the belay unsafe. So you can still belay with gear or you can continue on to the summit of the block and lower with a 70m rope. Mar 20, 2008
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Really fun route. Gear is not critical between the bolts, however a larger cam and long sling is nice at the top near the chain. The climbing is delicate, yet highly featured compared to other slab routes in the canyon. Right on for whoever put the chain anchor at the top of these route! Apr 13, 2008
SLC, Utah
Sunny-D   SLC, Utah
The Chain Anchor was added last fall (2007) by Tenesmus and Sunny-D. There are now several other routes in the area as well- All really fun "well" protected. pm me if you want information. I need to finish a couple of things up there before I post the routes May 1, 2008
Michael Buchanan
Michael Buchanan  
I thought, at the bottom, that this was going to be a crimpy sport climb. Boy was I wrong. Cool slab moves at the top! Wahooooo! Apr 26, 2010
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
Awesome slab. A little sporty in the movement at the crux but fantastic. Not really PG13, you make the crux move with good pro. The top's a bit runout, but it's easy climbing. May 13, 2012
Erik R Johnson
Tacoma, WA
Erik R Johnson   Tacoma, WA
I just have to add my 2 cents...if you are planning to climb to the same anchors as "Squeeze my Lemon" and "Zesty," then you should bring gear for the upper cracks. Otherwise it is a serious runout (though as other posters have mentioned, the climbing up higher is easier). Apr 14, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way. Nov 11, 2014
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Great line, don't tr it just get after it! I liked having a cam to protect the moves going to the top of Squeeze My Lemmon. Although this is really more of mental pro as once you get going the moves are easy. I liked the slab start, it felt like 5.11 LCC slab. May 13, 2015
Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Heady lead, seemed full value for a 10a going straight up bolt line (easy to get lost in much harder territory) cutting right to the edge/arete probably keeps it at 10a. Definite runnout up top w/o some gear. A fall before clipping the second bolt would not be good, rope stretch to ledges...probably warrant at least a PG-13 rating elsewhere? May 12, 2016
Matt Steubing
Salt Lake City, Utah
Matt Steubing   Salt Lake City, Utah
Thought I would add this video link of the climb from 2013. This was my second climb of the season (the first being Squeeze My Lemon as warm up that same day) and it was definitely fun and delicate on the slab portion. Cary Siteman (pictured on this page) lead the climb that day. The video gives some feel for being on the route. Enjoy! youtu.be/JWPmo3UR1xA Jun 1, 2016
Wow. Just when I thought there wasn't a more useless location for a GoPro. Jun 1, 2016
danhohl   SLC, UT
Gotta agree with Shameless Shaemus. Fell yesterday right before clipping the second bolt and hit the ledges with rope stretch. Nonetheless, great route and great lead to get a taste for LCC slab! Oct 2, 2016
jawshoe uhh
Sandy, UTAH
jawshoe uhh   Sandy, UTAH
The granite guide says gear to .3. You can get a bd #4 before the first bolt and a #3 in after the 3rd bolt. Offset X4s were clutch on this route. Jul 14, 2018