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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Duncan and Zac Robinson
Page Views: 1,483 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rob Duncan on Apr 9, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This variation of Manager's Special was kindly offered by Z Robinson to R Duncan on April 9th. A fun route that is capped by an absolutely stellar finger crack (that just doesn't seem long enough!). A hand crack to a tenuous slab step-over move, to a splitter finger crack (with good feet in the finger crack!)

Location

Same as for Manager's Special, except upon completion of the hand crack (before entering the gaping chimney/offwidth) step up and left to gain the obvious splitter finger crack.

Protection

Bring pro from small fingers (blue aliens) to 3.5". A few long runners are needed to keep the rope drag manageable. A bolt protects the delicate and exciting slab move that is necessary to gain the killer finger crack. Two bolt anchor. Easily rapped with a 60m.

Photos

Excellent! Glad you got the vision and did it. I assume you have the one (very necessary) new bolt, then the anchors right by the bomber finger crack (put in previously), then to the top to the anchors of King Lizard? Apr 10, 2010
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
Exactly. It almost seems like each piece should be extended once you are past it. The step over onto the slab is great.

This route was almost named Delicacy. Apr 10, 2010
It's a very cool move, stepping left out of the Manager's Special and around the prow--very improbable, LCC slab magic! What a day! S Apr 11, 2010
What happened to Quarter-Life Lovin'? Apr 29, 2010
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
  5.10+
'delicacy' fits with the managers special theme better, and that step over move shouldn't be forgotten! May 2, 2010
Todd Green
SLC, UT
 
Todd Green   SLC, UT
 
Didn't realize that sparrow was on the menu. :( Jun 23, 2010

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