Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Z. Robinson, S. Ohkawa, 25 March 2010
Page Views: 133 total, 1/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Mar 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Inspired by an image recently posted here by Tenesmus, Zac and I decided to have a go at this unclimbed line on the Lizard Head Wall. In spite of the blustery, cold conditions, we managed to thrutch our way up this severely leaning hands-to-fists crack and into the bombay squeeze chimney above. From the Blue Collar Crack belay, downclimb a few body lengths to the base of the obvious, right-leaning handcrack. The business starts right off of the belay, then the route eases considerably; mantling the awkward bulge--and, perhaps, the angle of the crack--proved to be the crux. Continue past a steep, darker colored roof then finesse your way into the wideness, careful to avoid a bit of bat guano. Bring pants. The chain anchor belay atop the Redneck Slab (10a) provides an escape; rap to the first belay, then to the top of Squeeze My Lemon--or to just shy of the deck if you've got a 70m and don't mind a bit of easy downclimbing. This adventure was fueled almost entirely by discount provisions purchased on our way to the canyon--hence, the Manager's Special.

Location

To find the Manager's Special, climb Blue Collar Crack (9+), Part Time Crack (5), or even Squeeze My Lemon (7)--link it past its anchors to the final slab moves of Blue Collar--to a two bolt belay. From the belay, downclimb a body length or two to the base of a right-leaning handcrack.

Protection

Bring pro to 3.5", with optional wide gear to 7" for the back of the upper chimney. Doubles may prove useful in hands to fists. Don't forget the long slings!

Photos

0 Comments