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Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cashmere Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Drama V5- 6C
Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zesty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: ? ?
Page Views: 1,254 total, 11/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

To start this climb gain the mid-ledge by beginning in the alcove for Blue Collar Crack or Zesty or work your way up Part Time Crack. Once on this ledge look to the far left for a set of chicken heads on the slab. Follow this slab past four bolts up to a mini dihedral/lie-back finger crack. Get your digits deep in this crack, place a few small pieces and work your way up and right around two bulges through jams and lie-backs to finish at the anchors.

Protection

Four draws, a few slings, and a light rack. (bd #.2-#.5 and a #2 are useful)

Photos

Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
Ugh I got into the finger crack after not knowing which way to go on Blue Collar Crack. The crack was good but when I got through it the traverse moves were covered in wasps that didn't want to move. Being slightly allergic I decided to go up and over the top of the traverse moves. I pulled through on a large block and pushed through to the anchors on the slab below Red Neck Crack. DON'T DO IT THIS WAY. The rock quality was fairly poor and there is 6 inch deep guano in the crack next to you. It sucked. Oct 18, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Yeah, like grk10vq, I accessed this from Part Time Crack and I quite enjoyed it. I'd say it was more like 5.9, though. Nov 22, 2008
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
Really fun climb with a wide variety of techniques. There is a really nice rest at the top of the finger crack in the chimney sort of thing. As with any new routes, Watch the rock on the upper part of this route. It is cleaning up day by day but there is some really loose and very large rock just waiting to come off. Pulled off a 15" by 15" piece the other day. Pretty glad I was wearing my helmet that day... Nov 16, 2008
grk10vq    
Its most likely best to access this from part-time crack as its a more direct line. Use long runners for the first two bolts if you climb this from the alcove to reduce drag. Jul 2, 2008