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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The Dragon Arch is a relatively remote and rarely visited crag in LCC. Having a route of nearly every grade and almost every style, the Dragon Arch has an adventure waiting for for even the pickiest climber.

Primarily a traditional, mixed crag, this area holds a lot of history and old school flare. Looking for something wide? Try your hand at the still squeamish Valentine Crack. Bob Irine, Rick Reese and Ted Wilson's 1963 Valentine's Day sweet treat was later freed by local climbing icon George Lowe and partner Rex Alldredge. Strap on your boots and grovel!

If wide, daring cracks aren't your thing take a spin on Lunar Tick. Climbed on January 1st 1990, this is quite possibly the first route of the 90's.

Want something new? Say Gimmie Danger, but be careful what you wish for...this more contemporary line boasts old school flavor! And if you want to mix the old with the new step up to the plate and try the crags most recently freed Enter the Dragon. An old, abandoned aid line re-equipped and re-run as a two-pitch mega route.

A 20th century crag with some 21st century additions, explore this area's mystique. Just remember, this is the Dragon Arch- Don't get burned.

Getting There

Park at the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride and take the excellent trail out of the NE corner and approach the same as for The Egg. Once at the lower base of The Egg, before the last few switchbacks, continue to the right and head around up and right to the Dragon Arch. See the beta photo with The Egg and the Dragon Arch for any questions.

Thanks to the SLCA for the trail.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dragon Arch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Craig Martin
Park City
Craig Martin   Park City
Has anyone around these parts been on Rodeo Girls in Bondage recently?
I am curious about the condition of the fixed gear at the 1st pitch anchor? Nov 8, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch. Nov 8, 2009
Drew_n Nichols
Park City, UT
Drew_n Nichols   Park City, UT
Hey all, in a PBR induced stupor we might have left a #3 and .4 camalot at the base of Last Shout (5/04). Anyone out there see them and be willing to return lost booty?

Cheers, ajn May 14, 2014

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