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Dragon Arch Rock Climbing
Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 6,193 ft |
| GPS: |
40.57426, -111.76793 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 34,286 total · 155/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Apr 10, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Dragon Arch is a relatively remote and rarely visited crag in LCC. Having a route of nearly every grade and almost every style, the Dragon Arch has an adventure waiting for for even the pickiest climber.
Primarily a traditional, mixed crag, this area holds a lot of history and old school flare. Looking for something wide? Try your hand at the still squeamish Valentine Crack. Bob Irine, Rick Reese and Ted Wilson's 1963 Valentine's Day sweet treat was later freed by local climbing icon George Lowe and partner Rex Alldredge. Strap on your boots and grovel!
If wide, daring cracks aren't your thing take a spin on Lunar Tick. Climbed on January 1st 1990, this is quite possibly the first route of the 90's.
Want something new? Say Gimmie Danger, but be careful what you wish for...this more contemporary line boasts old school flavor! And if you want to mix the old with the new step up to the plate and try the crags most recently freed Enter the Dragon. An old, abandoned aid line re-equipped and re-run as a two-pitch mega route.
A 20th century crag with some 21st century additions, explore this area's mystique. Just remember, this is the Dragon Arch- Don't get burned.
Primarily a traditional, mixed crag, this area holds a lot of history and old school flare. Looking for something wide? Try your hand at the still squeamish Valentine Crack. Bob Irine, Rick Reese and Ted Wilson's 1963 Valentine's Day sweet treat was later freed by local climbing icon George Lowe and partner Rex Alldredge. Strap on your boots and grovel!
If wide, daring cracks aren't your thing take a spin on Lunar Tick. Climbed on January 1st 1990, this is quite possibly the first route of the 90's.
Want something new? Say Gimmie Danger, but be careful what you wish for...this more contemporary line boasts old school flavor! And if you want to mix the old with the new step up to the plate and try the crags most recently freed Enter the Dragon. An old, abandoned aid line re-equipped and re-run as a two-pitch mega route.
A 20th century crag with some 21st century additions, explore this area's mystique. Just remember, this is the Dragon Arch- Don't get burned.
Getting There
Park at the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride and take the excellent trail out of the NE corner and approach the same as for The Egg. Once at the lower base of The Egg, before the last few switchbacks, continue to the right and head around up and right to the Dragon Arch. See the beta photo with The Egg and the Dragon Arch for any questions.
Thanks to the SLCA for the trail.
Thanks to the SLCA for the trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Dragon Arch
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
![Lower Dragon Arch area with [[106596475]] (the dihedral crack in red, alternate start shown) and Toymaker's Dream (mixed line in blue).<br>
The wideness in the background is [[105741464]].](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106609835_smallMed_1494125109.jpg?cache=1597514719)
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