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Routes in Early Bird

Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

About 200 feet above the Wheeler Newsome/ Hong wall is another series of cracks and faces. This area is a tribute to all the guys who wake up early and get after it before work.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Walk up the Egg trail, passing several switchbacks. After the trail intersects the gully below the Hong wall, go one more switchback and cut up on the light climbers path leading back to the gully. Walk 200 more feet up to the base of the wall.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Early Bird

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Hair of the Dog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hair of the Dog
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
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Photos

So there I was, at the top of Bed Head, the first line we worked on up here. Its barely light and I heard this gruff voice call out from the gully behind me, "Is that Tenesmus?" Yep! Howdy down there! "What are you doing up here so early?" Umm, climbing. "Are you going to do that line around the arete?" Its the whole reason we came up here...

I had been eying this area for several years and the timing for getting after it couldn't have been a second later. Seriously though, the cleaning on all these routes took a lot of time and was sometimes dangerous. What we found was (so far 4) additional all gear protected lines.

The Worm and then Bed Head make really great warmups for people wanting to try Tick Fever for the first time. Seriously, how many people have gotten on that thing cold turkey and gotten pumped out of their minds? I sure did. Oct 29, 2010

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