Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Mike Perkins and Clay Watson, 2011
Page Views: 1,526 total · 10/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climbs the gently overhanging crack directly below and linking into the final crux of Early Bird. Scramble up the chossy rock and make a belay on a nice little shelf directly below the crack. Fire the V4 start, then some .11-ish climbing to the final V5-ish crux.

Location Suggest change

Just left of Bedhead and under the final crux of Early Bird. The topo in A Granite Guide is slightly off, leading you to believe you stay in the initial crack far longer than you should. Don't do that, unless you're ready for potential 5.14 climbing. The topo on this page should get you there.

Protection Suggest change

A nut and a #3 camalot for the belay at the bottom. Singles from grey tcu-#2 camalot with one or two long runners for the middle pieces. You can place a bomber medium offset nut below the crux but that's probably the only nut you'd need to supplement the cams.

Photos

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