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Routes in Early Bird

Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Perkins and Clay Watson, 2011
Page Views: 749 total, 10/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climbs the gently overhanging crack directly below and linking into the final crux of Early Bird. Scramble up the chossy rock and make a belay on a nice little shelf directly below the crack. Fire the V4 start, then some .11-ish climbing to the final V5-ish crux.

Location

Just left of Bedhead and under the final crux of Early Bird.

Protection

A nut and a #3 camalot for the belay at the bottom. Singles from grey tcu-#2 camalot with one or two long runners for the middle pieces. You can place a bomber medium offset nut below the crux but that's probably the only nut you'd need to supplement the cams.

Photos

Todd H
Sandy, UT
  5.12b/c
Todd H   Sandy, UT
  5.12b/c
Had a lot of fun on top rope, which we set up by climbing over from the Bed Head anchor. A Yellow TCU and #2 Camalot in the upper crack system worked well as directionals. It might be a good idea to dial in your gear this way before leading it, as there seems to be a blind placement or two in the first half of the business. Great movement, especially the first crux! May 3, 2017
tenesmus  
 
I've gotten feedback that this is probably straight .12c. Its got an extra V4 crux before joining Early Bird but is way shorter. Jan 26, 2014
vacano
  5.12b/c
vacano  
  5.12b/c
This fairly direct line is substantially shorter than Early Bird yet a bit harder. Sep 26, 2011
tenesmus  
 
This climbs more like two or three boulder problems than a route. Its short but the moves are fun so we kept going back. Probably about as hard as Speed Trap but far less sharp and painful. The finish boulder problem goes static if you can trust your feet.

Edit to say this dries out quickly and gets enough sun to make for a nice winter line. It short enough to keep your fingers from totally freezing and the temps help a ton. Jul 2, 2011