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Routes in Early Bird
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Bed Head T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57398, -111.76954 |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Mike Perkins, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,606 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Start in twin cracks in a dihedral at the bottom of the arete, climbing three or four fun sequences interspersed with huge rests. Each sequence gets a bit harder than the last. As you get about 2/3 of the way up, there is a fun transition into a seam and crack system to the right, setting up for the final boulder problem.
**The fall at the top is scary but safe, as long as you do not let yourself get sucked too far right at the top. We never went much farther right than the chickehnead, fearing a pendulum back into the corner. If you are concerned about this, it's a great idea to TR or even headpoint it to figure it out.
Location
The crack systems just right of the big arete splitting the wall.
Anchor access to TR:
1. Climb up to the anchor of Boing, then drop down to EB anchor. 2. Climb BedHead and traversing L to the anchor. or 3. Coming in from the top from the ridge. Sometimes there is a fixed line on a tree to rap down to the Boing anchor and then to EB.
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