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Routes in Early Bird

Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Mike Perkins, 2010
Page Views: 201 total, 2/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start in twin cracks in a dihedral at the bottom of the a arete, climbing three or four really great sequences interspersed with huge rests. Each sequence gets a bit harder than the last. As you get about 2/3 of the way up, there is a fun transition into a crack system to the right, setting up for the final boulder problem.

Location

The crack systems just right of the big arete splitting the wall

Protection

I used medium nuts, a blue tcu or .3 or .4? camalot (save it for your last piece), 2 yellow-tcu-sized pieces, one set of cams up to #4 camalot.
tenesmus  
 
I've been told by several friends this might be .12c? I have no idea how to rate stuff because I often have to siege the stew out of it before I actually send. All I know is that its a heads up line with great rests between fun cruxes that keep coming after you. This is a great mid to late day winter route during high pressure systems and a great evening route in spring and fall.

I know a lot of people have gotten on it but don't know it its had a third ascent after Mike and I did it. If you have sent, please let me know your thoughts on the grade and any equipping changes you'd want to see. Jan 26, 2014
Ben Folsom
  5.12b
Ben Folsom  
  5.12b
Reachy... Nov 17, 2011
vacano
  5.12b
vacano  
  5.12b
Fun & diverse climbing with rests to a "for real" good bouldery finish. Sep 26, 2011
tenesmus  
 
Oh Brad.
Brad. Brad. Brad. Oct 30, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
4 stars divided by 2 is probably more realistic eh? :) Oct 29, 2010
tenesmus  
 
I'm pretty sure this hasn't had a second ascent. I'd love to know what others think. Personally, the moves on this are really fun and the last boulder problem is kick ass. The blue tcu holds long whippers from large climbers so trust me when I say the gear is good. Just be sure the large lobes are on the left. Oct 29, 2010