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Boing-oing-oing
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 14
votes
Routes in Early Bird
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Bed Head T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57398, -111.76954 |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Mike Perkins and Gregg Kirchhoff, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,340 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on May 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This might is one of the rare .10d-ish crack routes in LCC and is one of the most fun routes of the crag. It’s definitely easier than Equipment Left. More fluid style than Bong Eater, at least for me.
Begin as for Early Bird on twin cracks, taking good but precise gear including an inobvious, larger cam as pictured in the one of the E.B. photos. From the first pedestal, look for a left-slanting crack that turns the corner into the shallow dihedral on the southern face. Follow this crack system up to an anchor near the arete. The second crux seems to be based on the sequence you find getting established in that corner. It's hard not to be myopic and only look in the corner. Open your eyes and paw around both sides of the dihedral.
UPDATE: In November 2024, we updated and re-cleaned the route. We added a bolt to the bottom section on the advice of many friends, making it PG instead of R+ and a lot more reasonable/fun for the 5.10 leader. We also moved the anchor over near the arete, making this an excellent way to access the anchors of Early Bird.
This route was added after we'd done fifty laps on the bottom as we worked Early Bird. We had the bottom mega-wired so we were a bit unconscious about the R down there. Sorry about that.
I have a stuck purple TCU in the upper crux and if you can remove it, I'd love to buy it back with a beer.
Location
About 100 feet up from Strewn Masters of Gore. Shares the start of Early Bird in twin cracks that move up and right, below an arete. This climb moves towards the arete in leftward diagonaling cracks at the first pedestal.
Protection
When we first did this in 2010: HB offset nuts, purple tcu through #4 camalot. (extra yellow tcu, .75 camalot or equivalent).
Modern gear: HB offsets, Singles from 00 to .2 camalot, doubles though .75; singles in #1 through a new 4 or #5 camalot. The #4 or 5 placement is finicky but when you line up the lobes, it takes falls well. (see photo on the Early Bird page)
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