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Routes in Early Bird

Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Mike Perkins and Gregg Kirchhoff, 2010
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: tenesmus on May 14, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This might be the most fun route of the crag. Begin as for Early Bird on twin cracks, taking good but precise gear including an in-obvious #4 camalot-sized piece. Look for a left-slanting crack that turns the corner around the arete and get ready to get after it as you move around and into the shallow dihedral on the southern face. Follow this crack system up to the ledge and anchor where The Worm ends. The crux seems to be based on the sequence you find getting established and protected in that corner.

Location

About 100 feet up from Strewn Masters of Gore.

Protection

Nuts, purple tcu through #4 camalot. (extra yellow tcu, .75 camalot or equivalent)

Photos

tenesmus  
 
I've gotten more feedback since this is cleaned and up its is probably .10d or .11a. Personally, I think this is easier and far, far less sustained than Tick Fever. Jan 26, 2014
zoso
  5.10c
zoso  
  5.10c
Pretty stellar route. The shared start with Early Bird is fantastic, as is the crux of Boing. Makes me wish I was good enough to do EB. The 5.8-5.9ish face after the dihedral was kicks too. Jun 2, 2011
tenesmus  
 
Thanks for the feedback John. So sorry you took a winger and hope you're all right. I wonder if the hold you broke is near the top of the first crux? There is a little flake we debated cleaning that makes a nice jug to exit that section. It felt solid with a tap of the hammer so I didn't push it.

I'm a bit conservative with running things out and bring my A-game for the start of this. You can sew it up and there's no denying the gear is tricky. I usually put in 4 pieces on the bottom 25? feet or so, but there is more/different gear than I described. Give me a call and fill me in. I'd be happy to go back and clean it up more.

As for the 3-stars, I just think its a natural line with great movement. You did the 3rd ascent, so of course it'll take some cleaning.

Finally, pulling into and through that dihedral is only .10c if you find the right holds. The fa was hilarious because I got all worked up, climbing into/out of that dihedral a bunch of times as I searched for gear and a way through. But the cool part of climbing is working it out and its all there. Until I saw it, I was feeling like the moves were .11-? or so. But then once it opened up there was some hooting and laughing at how obvious and enormously juggy it really is.

Maybe I'm wrong but it kind of feels like the first few times I did Black and White, John and Mary in that as I realized how good the rests were and how juggy everything is, it got a lot easier. Boing is like that only maybe a bit easier?
May 29, 2011
John Steiger
  5.10d
John Steiger  
  5.10d
You owe me Ten. Got on this 6:30am today, before work (brrr), and had quite the, um, adventure. Popped a hold, fell twenty feet, then found the entry move into the hanging dihedral to be a bit harder than advertised. Great position, but it’ll need a bunch more ascents to clean up to three stars – definitely has the potential though. Early Bird looks awesome, but it’ll have to wait for a good night’s sleep and warmer climes. May 27, 2011