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Early Access
Routes in Early Bird
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Bed Head T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57398, -111.76954 |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Drew Bedford, Bryce Perkins, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 980 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
NO ONE SHOULD CLIMB THIS ROUTE. Seriously, I can't believe how sketchy it is.
We went to re-clean it in Dec 2025 and decided it wasn't worth the effort or the bolts. If anyone wants to make this their own, feel free to scrape the terrible rock off of it, reclean the cracks, add at least a few bolts to the bottom, cut back that bush, etc. go for it. Rename it and take my name off of it. If you do that, I suggest a name along the lines of "wet the bed" or "the sheetstain".
OLD DESCRIPTION WHICH IS COMPLETE OVERSTOKER-HYPE-AFTERGLOW-NONSENSE FROM GETTING AN LCC FA, EVEN THOUGH IT'S NOT GOOD AT ALL.
The middle of this climbs somewhat like the middle of Mexican Crack.** Start in the at the apex of the arete and immediately cut left onto the pedestal at the base of Pimple Tower using cams and long runners. Climb the obvious crack system starting on the right side of the bush at its bottom. About half way up the face, there is a small overlap where the crack dog-legs left about 6 feet and then up and right to the anchors.
Bryce and friends helped me clean some crazy blocks off of this the weekend before but the FA lead was in the dark, before work. FA'd with Drew Bedford so we could access Early Bird. This was the day that he cleaned out the gaston moves as you traverse in below the final crux of EB. Might be my favorite gaston sequence.
(**except the pro is worse and the rock is much less dependable)
Photos
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