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Routes in Early Bird

Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Drew Bedford, Bryce Perkins, 2010
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The middle of this climbs somewhat like the middle of Mexican Crack. Start in the at the apex of the arete and immediately cut left onto the pedestal at the base of Pimple Tower using cams and long runners. Climb the obvious crack system starting on the right side of the bush at its bottom. About half way up the face, there is a small overlap where the crack dog-legs left about 6 feet and then up and right to the anchors


Starts on the arete but ends to the right of the old route called 'Pimple Tower'


Small to medium nuts and cams up to #3 camalot. Lots of long runners to reduce rope drag and the start and again at the overlap.


Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Fun albeit a bit scary (for me) since it's easy to miss gear opportunities (the crack/face is quite funky). Good moves on suspect looking/feeling but solid rock. I seem to remember placing a #4 at the bottom, not sure it's necessary though. Oct 29, 2010
Amazing what you can do with 30 minutes and a 6 foot pry bar. Oct 29, 2010
Cleaning this was fairly burly. Zoso knocked several tons of loose flakes and death blocks off this. Many one to two foot thick by 4-6 foot tall and 2-4 foot wide blocks came off. The gully was shaking, dust was everywhere and the poor guy (BHeller's friend Matt) trying to OS Tick Fever were feeling the brunt of it.

When I was working Early Bird I did many laps on this and its cleaned up a lot better. Not perfect, but better. Oct 29, 2010