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Routes in Early Bird

Bed Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Bryce Perkins, Tyler Cline, 2010
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

At first glance, there aren't too many reasons to get in bed with this one. Short. Wide. Kind of Ugly.
But a wise friend once told me to flirt with the ugly ones too. First of all, they probably think you're ugly. Second, they might be kind of fun. At least this one has a wild finish!

Scramble to the base and climb the wide-ish crack to a stance. Unless you're just way into it, you can use the huge jugs instead of jamming. Then face climb on surprisingly huge jugs to the handcrack. If you miss the beta on the finish mantle you'll be making it far, far harder.

Location

Right of Early Bird, the obvious wide to hand crack.

Protection

a medium nut, one set of .5 to #4 camalots. bolted anchor.

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Well, it's worth it for the finishing move. And it's a few pounds cleaner today after my friend and I pulled and pushed rock off of it while climbing. Sep 6, 2014
MFL
Sandy, UT
 
MFL   Sandy, UT
 
i went for the straight up finish and with a heel hook, it was actually one of the easier moves on the climb. I had a really really hard time on this one. Definately a climb to prove, "it's all 5.9". Those "jugs" we barndoor laybacks on suspect rock. Bring 2x#3's. One to protect the gravely flaring start, one for the top-out. Good training for those sandbagged alpine finishes, otherwise horrible training for confidence. Tick fever felt a lot easier after this one! Regardless, thank you for taking the time to clean and anchor it :) Sep 12, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
Steeeeeeeeep! Way juggier than it looks with lots of great feet which helps in keeping the grade reasonable. The bad beta finish straight up from the bomber hand jams is as described: way harder. Oct 29, 2010