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Routes in Early Bird
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Bed Head T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boing-oing-oing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Bird T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Worm, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57398, -111.76954 |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Bryce Perkins, Tyler Cline, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 968 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
At first glance, there aren't too many reasons to get in bed with this one. Like most of us, it's a little short, a little wide and might not feel pretty in the morning. But a wise friend once told me to flirt with the funky people too because sometimes they give you a wild finish.
Scramble to the base and climb the wide-ish looking crack as surrounded by face features. Save your strength by mixing up the face and crack technique, heading towards the obvious hand crack near the top. If you miss the beta on the finish mantle you'll be making it far, far harder.
Location
Right of Early Bird, the obvious crack that looks wide but thankfully doesn't climb wide. There are tons of face features that get you to the hand crack and mantle finish.
Protection
This really is kind of short so when we first did this, I only used a medium nut and .5-#3. The years have taught me just to say "Standard LCC rack with optional #4 or 5 camalot." Save something hand-sized with a quickdraw on it for the top crux. Bring your hand-jammies.
The bolted anchor can't be seen from the ground but is set back in the alcove at the top of the crack. This now has a bolt to protect the moves down low.
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