Start in twin cracks in a dihedral at the bottom of the arete, climbing three or four fun sequences interspersed with huge rests. Each sequence gets a bit harder than the last. As you get about 2/3 of the way up, there is a fun transition into a seam and crack system to the right, setting up for the final boulder problem.

**The fall at the top is scary but safe, as long as you do not let yourself get sucked too far right at the top. We never went much farther right than the chickehnead, fearing a pendulum back into the corner. If you are concerned about this, it's a great idea to TR or even headpoint it to figure it out. 

The crack systems just right of the big arete splitting the wall.

Anchor access to TR:
1. Climb up to the anchor of Boing, then drop down to EB anchor. 2. Climb BedHead and traversing L to the anchor. or 3. Coming in from the top from the ridge. Sometimes there is a fixed line on a tree to rap down to the Boing anchor and then to EB.

I used medium nuts, a blue tcu or .3 or .4? camalot (save it for your last piece), 2 yellow-tcu-sized pieces, one set of cams up to #4 camalot.