Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,223 ft
GPS: 40.5736, -111.7488
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 85,087 total · 361/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: On private land. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.

Getting There Suggest change

A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
 
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. From here, fork left for the Lower and South faces, or right for the main Peeler face. 

60 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Black Peeler Buttress Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Black Peeler Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
C2
 33
Peeler Direct
Aid
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Playing In The Sun
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 67
Western Grebe
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
The Stone Cutter
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 13
Daffy's Shaft
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Fool's Paradise
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
S&M Airlines
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Ducks in Bondage
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Western Grebe Mantel Var.
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+ PG13
 11
Black Peeler
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 11
Great Grebes, Batman!
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
Dark of the Moon
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Megadeth
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Frozen Stool
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peeler Direct Peeler Face
 33
C2 Aid
Playing In The Sun S Face
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Western Grebe S Face
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
The Stone Cutter Gem Stone
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Daffy's Shaft S Face
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Fool's Paradise S Face
 48
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
S&M Airlines Ducks in Bondage Slab
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Ducks in Bondage Ducks in Bondage Slab
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S Face
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Peeler Peeler Face
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+ PG13 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Great Grebes, Batman! S Face
 11
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Dark of the Moon S Face
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Megadeth S Face
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Frozen Stool S Face
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route Peeler Face
 11
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Black Peeler Buttress »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading