Elevation: 6,223 ft
GPS: 40.574, -111.749 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,496 total · 269/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004 with improvements by Brent Barghahn
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: On private land. Details

Description

You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.

Getting There

A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
 
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. From here, fork left for the Lower and South faces, or right for the main Peeler face. 

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Peeler Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
C2
 30
Peeler Direct
Aid
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Playing In The Sun
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 53
Western Grebe
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Gem Stone
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Stone Cutter
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Fool's Paradise
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
 8
Black Peeler
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 7
Great Grebes, Batman!
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Dark of the Moon
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Sportsman's Paradise
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Megadeth
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
 3
The Serpent
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Frozen Stool
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peeler Direct Peeler Face
 30
C2 Aid
Playing In The Sun S Face
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Western Grebe S Face
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Gem Stone Gem Stone
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Stone Cutter Gem Stone
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fool's Paradise S Face
 32
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Peeler Peeler Face
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Great Grebes, Batman! S Face
 7
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Dark of the Moon S Face
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sportsman's Paradise S Face
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Megadeth S Face
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Serpent Peeler Face
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Frozen Stool S Face
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route Peeler Face
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Black Peeler Buttress »

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