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Areas in Black Peeler Buttress

Gem Stone , The 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Peeler Face 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 17
South Face 11 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 19

Description

You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.
On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

42 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Peeler Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I would rather be a wanna-be if I could not be an are, for a wanna-be is a maybe with a chance to yet make par. I would rather be a has-been than a might-have-been by far; for a might-have-been was never, but a has was once an are! Sep 27, 2017
The pin protecting the initial mantle on the first pitch of Bat Walk (5.9+) is now gone; the ancient, sawed-off bong fell out with hardly a tug--likely, a relic from the '65 FA (L.Nelson, P.Anderson). A 3-3.5" piece will protect this short section perfectly--I doubt there's a need to replace the iron. It now resides at the IME museum of obsolescence, guarded by a few has-beens, and this wanna-be. Sep 27, 2017
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church). Jun 25, 2009

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