Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: On private land. Details

Description

You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.

Getting There

A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
 
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. From here, fork left for the Lower and South faces, or right for the main Peeler face. 

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Peeler Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Allen Sanderson   Oootah
It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church). Jun 25, 2009
The pin protecting the initial mantle on the first pitch of Bat Walk (5.9+) is now gone; the ancient, sawed-off bong fell out with hardly a tug--likely, a relic from the '65 FA (L.Nelson, P.Anderson). A 3-3.5" piece will protect this short section perfectly--I doubt there's a need to replace the iron. It now resides at the IME museum of obsolescence, guarded by a few has-beens, and this wanna-be. Sep 27, 2017
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I would rather be a wanna-be if I could not be an are, for a wanna-be is a maybe with a chance to yet make par. I would rather be a has-been than a might-have-been by far; for a might-have-been was never, but a has was once an are! Sep 27, 2017
The longtime, verbal agreement that climbers can access the Peeler via the old road still stands, for now. Based on recent discussions with Perpetual (thanks Julia and Allen!), this may change in the future. A trail connecting from Dihedrals/E.Gate to the Peeler is in the SLCA planning pipeline in support of the current good will between climbers and Perpetual. They don't like the MTB community due to a past altercation, but their security can easily ID climbers. I'll have to check out this new route via the Hill bouldering, but I agree that it's steep in there. It would be unfortunate to add unnecessary impacts. Not that the gym hordes are headed up to the Peeler anytime soon. Oct 27, 2018