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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Description

Mostly west-facing, this gully has some fine slab routes, some great rock, some bad rock, and some moderate cracks. Not a location for the faint of heart as the approach borders on comical, and none of the easier routes are well-protected. Romance on the Rocks, Altered States, A Bright Shining Lie, are just some of the fine lines.

P.S.Good slabbers come here as the rock needs a bit of cleaning, but otherwise some great lines.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Caveat: My approach information may not be the best. About 50 feet up canyon form the archives road is a weak gully. Work your way up this gully, bushwhacking and trail-finding the entire way. Work your way further west through clearings until the main gully is attained. Climb up this gully.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Altered States Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Will Roth
Saranac Lake, NY
Will Roth   Saranac Lake, NY
The approach is very easy and pretty fast. Start up the trail about 50ft East (up canyon) of the Archive Road. Keep going on this trail straight uphill. Eventually this trail comes to the base of the cliffs. Head West (left) and the trail dumps you into the gully just below the routes. Really cool area to explore! Great slab routes!!!! May 29, 2010
The trail is a lot easier to follow this year. Start per Nathan's description, but when you get a little past the large boulder start looking to the right for a nice trail with switchbacks through the trees and dumps you out at the bottom of the lower butress and then back into the gully

I was just looking at the route list for this area and most everything has an "R" by it. Most of the routes don't feel that bad though. Apr 22, 2007
Xover  
No cairn anymore; just head up boulder strewn gully as opposed to bushwhacking. Aug 26, 2006
As of 04/28/06, there was a cairn marked trail that was not too hard to follow to Altered States and The Fin. It starts just east of the archives road. Apr 29, 2006
I'd like to check this place out but I dont like to chase geese. Jul 12, 2005

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