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Routes in Great White Icicle Area

A Pinch of Salt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ape Index T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing in the Moonlight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Done and Dusted T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evening Falls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genuflect Falls WI3+ R
Great White Icicle, The WI3
Grinning Gibbons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Master Scriptorian T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
More Funky Than Monkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mountain Monkey Swing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Blocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plain Kipper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
River's Edge, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Small Block S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snow Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tap N Stance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toe Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Viet Cong Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Home to the popular ice climb, The Great White Icicle, the area offers some decent rock routes as well. Mostly slab climbing with rock very similar in texture to Pentapitch.

Getting There

Climbers Accessing the Great White Icicle

For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro-electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010 the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.

As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA’s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times!

During times of low water access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map.

During times of high water use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!
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Classic Climbing Routes at Great White Icicle Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Dave Burny
buffalo, ny
Dave Burny   buffalo, ny
looking for a partner...hey guys, gonna be in Utah next week, looking for a parnter(s)...I am bringing all but rope and or call 716-400-2436 if you are upto the call of duty...
pura vida,
Dave Feb 8, 2014

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