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The Thumb Nail Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Thumb Nail

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cuticle Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lightly Seasoned T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

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Elevation:	7,518 ft	2,291 m
GPS:	40.57672, -111.75623 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,652 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Cass Bindrup on Sep 16, 2017
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

100 yards uphill from the summit pitch of The Thumb in LCC is a large dome-shaped feature called The Thumb Nail. It has many large leaning blocks on its southern face creating several interesting variations to summit. Several cracks on the south and eastern faces have seen first ascents including the classic fingers 'cuticle-crack.' This is a difficult area to access by means of a traditional approach and therefore much potential for development exists on it and surrounding features. Like the thumb, the rock is excellent once brushed, cleaned and given a general sussing. First ascents will include dirty kitty-litter scraping skratching scrambling and filthy filthy language.

Getting There

If approached via Plumbline gully be prepared for a brutal slog, several scary loose sections of 5th-class scrambling, and plenty of scrub-oak. You will be hiking up the regular descent for the thumb essentially and passing the second rappel on the left to climb up and around a large fin of rock to pass beneath the first rappel in the gully to the right (east). Its a bush-whack. This will put you just east of the thumb-nail with the thumb below you and takes approximately 2 hours (if you don't get lost). Perhaps just better to just climb the thumb and walk 100 yards uphill from the summit pitch. Cuticle crack and Lightly Seasoned are on the south-eastern face.