Elevation: 6,366 ft
GPS: 40.574, -111.761 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,134 total · 156/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 20, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

What an awesome, aesthetic crag! I first hiked up to climb The Fin in 1985, wearing my 2nd-hand Fire's. After topping out, I couldn't even fathom that Lowe and McQuarrie ascended this in hob-nails back in 1965.

Although on private property (which creates a long approach) it is well worth the half-day outing to experience some of the most beautiful granite LCC has to offer.

The lines to the top are exposed, run-out, and challenging, the easiest of which is 5.10b/c, but the competent leader will find some truly inspiring climbing.

Please respect the landowner's wishes and approach from far up-canyon (see directions), and be extra carefull not to send rocks hurtling downward towards the road and parking area below.

Getting There

The falcon guide has a good description, but you'll likely get lost in the bushwhacking like everyone else, so I'll paraphrase it here:

Park 0.9 miles up canyon from the neon sign. The Fin is directly east of the LDS Church archives road. This road is strictly off-limits, so bushwhack towards a gully that descends just west of The Fin.

Thrash towards the point where this gully meets the parking area (staying out of the parking area of course), and it is here that you join an actual trail. Hike up this gully until you reach a gravelly flat spot just past the second of three stands of large Box Elder trees (approximately 100 feet up from an enormous boulder).

Behind the flat spot is a large, low-angled corner. Scramble up the corner about ten feet, then traverse up and right, passing mahogany trees to the ridge. Turn the ridge and walk up slabs for about 50 feet until a traverse through some small oak brush brings you to the bottom of another set of slabs. On the right side of these slabs, a brush-filled corner is topped by an old, gnarled pine tree.

Scramble up to this corner on knobs, then follow the corner up to the base of the climbs. Stepping out of the corner into the brush on the left is unpleasant, but much easier.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Fin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Hand Drills Suck!
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 17
Wasatch Harlem
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
The Pabst Schmear
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 74
The Fin Arete
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Fish For Brains
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Hook, Line and Sinker
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3
 5
The Ventral Fin
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 22
The Wave of Mutilation
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
The Dorsal Fin
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 7
Dark Horse
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Men of Mayhem
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 9
The Lateral Fin
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hand Drills Suck!
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wasatch Harlem
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Pabst Schmear
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Fin Arete
 74
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Fish For Brains
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hook, Line and Sinker
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
The Ventral Fin
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
The Wave of Mutilation
 22
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad 4 pitches
The Dorsal Fin
 58
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Dark Horse
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 3 pitches
Men of Mayhem
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Lateral Fin
 9
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Fin »

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