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The Fin Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 6,366 ft |
| GPS: |
40.574, -111.7612 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 46,532 total · 201/month |
| Shared By: | Vince Romney on May 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
What an awesome, aesthetic crag! I first hiked up to climb The Fin in 1985, wearing my 2nd-hand Fire's. After topping out, I couldn't even fathom that Lowe and McQuarrie ascended this in hob-nails back in 1965.
Although on private property (which creates a long approach) it is well worth the half-day outing to experience some of the most beautiful granite LCC has to offer.
The lines to the top are exposed, run-out, and challenging, the easiest of which is 5.10b/c, but the competent leader will find some truly inspiring climbing.
Please respect the landowner's wishes and approach from far up-canyon (see directions), and be extra carefull not to send rocks hurtling downward towards the road and parking area below.
Although on private property (which creates a long approach) it is well worth the half-day outing to experience some of the most beautiful granite LCC has to offer.
The lines to the top are exposed, run-out, and challenging, the easiest of which is 5.10b/c, but the competent leader will find some truly inspiring climbing.
Please respect the landowner's wishes and approach from far up-canyon (see directions), and be extra carefull not to send rocks hurtling downward towards the road and parking area below.
Getting There
The falcon guide has a good description, but you'll likely get lost in the bushwhacking like everyone else, so I'll paraphrase it here:
Park 0.9 miles up canyon from the neon sign. The Fin is directly east of the LDS Church archives road. This road is strictly off-limits, so bushwhack towards a gully that descends just west of The Fin.
Thrash towards the point where this gully meets the parking area (staying out of the parking area of course), and it is here that you join an actual trail. Hike up this gully until you reach a gravelly flat spot just past the second of three stands of large Box Elder trees (approximately 100 feet up from an enormous boulder).
Behind the flat spot is a large, low-angled corner. Scramble up the corner about ten feet, then traverse up and right, passing mahogany trees to the ridge. Turn the ridge and walk up slabs for about 50 feet until a traverse through some small oak brush brings you to the bottom of another set of slabs. On the right side of these slabs, a brush-filled corner is topped by an old, gnarled pine tree.
Scramble up to this corner on knobs, then follow the corner up to the base of the climbs. Stepping out of the corner into the brush on the left is unpleasant, but much easier.
Park 0.9 miles up canyon from the neon sign. The Fin is directly east of the LDS Church archives road. This road is strictly off-limits, so bushwhack towards a gully that descends just west of The Fin.
Thrash towards the point where this gully meets the parking area (staying out of the parking area of course), and it is here that you join an actual trail. Hike up this gully until you reach a gravelly flat spot just past the second of three stands of large Box Elder trees (approximately 100 feet up from an enormous boulder).
Behind the flat spot is a large, low-angled corner. Scramble up the corner about ten feet, then traverse up and right, passing mahogany trees to the ridge. Turn the ridge and walk up slabs for about 50 feet until a traverse through some small oak brush brings you to the bottom of another set of slabs. On the right side of these slabs, a brush-filled corner is topped by an old, gnarled pine tree.
Scramble up to this corner on knobs, then follow the corner up to the base of the climbs. Stepping out of the corner into the brush on the left is unpleasant, but much easier.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Fin
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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