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Routes in Coffin Buttress

C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Elevation: 5,945 ft
GPS: 40.574, -111.771 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 26,891 total, 161/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress.

The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coffin Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Coffin
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rightside Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
The Viewing
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Exsqueeze Me
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coffin Roof
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Coffin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rightside Variation 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Viewing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
Exsqueeze Me 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Coffin Roof 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Coffin Buttress »

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Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin. May 14, 2004

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