Elevation: 5,945 ft
GPS: 40.574, -111.771 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,435 total · 245/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress.

The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coffin Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 572
The Coffin
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 66
Rightside Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 157
The Viewing
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
C.P.O.D.
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 43
Closed Casket Variation
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
Exsqueeze Me
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 13
Coffin Roof
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Coffin
 572
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rightside Variation
 66
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Viewing
 157
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
C.P.O.D.
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Closed Casket Variation
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Exsqueeze Me
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Coffin Roof
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
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