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Kermits Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Kermits Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bottleneck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	6,204 ft
GPS:	40.574, -111.755 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	30,290 total · 151/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Mar 30, 2004
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The long slabby wall just left of the Schoolroom goes by two different names in the Wasatch Guide, but has very distinct separations. The lower section is called Kermit's Wall. These walls are connected together, separated by a distinct dihedral, and hold many fine routes. Nice cracks split the face making it a good destination. Kermit's Wall has some quality bolted routes as well as some good thin cracks.

Getting There

Park 1.25 miles up the canyon at the large dirt parking lot on the north side of the road at the Gate Boulders, then follow the trail on the west end of the lot. Take the left fork which heads west (sign for Schoolroom), and follow the new-ish very nice trail through the boulders. You will see many large rock steps leading the way, trending up and left (well to the left of Schoolroom).

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kermits Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 185 ● Cranial Prophylactic Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 163 ● Smitty's Wet Dream Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 136 ● Kermit's Wad Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 50 ● Kermit's Direct Start Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 39 ● Paranoia Streak Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 10 ● Centerfold Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 19 ● Lime Line Variation Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 15 ● Revenge of the Nerds Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 40 ● Punany Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Lend Me a Dime Sport 2 pitches