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Kermits Wall Rock Climbing

Routes in Kermits Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
	Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lend Me a Dime S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Punany S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Elevation:	6,204 ft
GPS:	40.574, -111.755 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	21,450 total · 125/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Mar 30, 2004
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The long slabby wall just left of the Schoolroom goes by two different names in the Wasatch Guide, but has very distinct separations. The lower section is called Kermit's Wall. These walls are connected together, separated by a distinct dihedral, and hold many fine routes. Nice cracks split the face making it a good destination. Kermit's Wall has some quality bolted routes as well as some good thin cracks.

Getting There

Probably the easiest approach is to first go up to the Schoolroom area. To get there, park 1.25 miles up the canyon, then follow the trail just downhill from the chain link fence. Take the left fork which heads west, and eventually crosses into a field of boulders. Climb up the boulders to the base of the Schoolroom. Then traverse left and up past here, following the climber's trail which is the descent route for the Schoolroom. This eventually gets to a big formation on the left, across from the gully. Look for a very thin seam cleaving a low angle slab as a landmark (The Green A). To get to the Kermit's Wall, follow the base of the rock downhill.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kermits Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 146 ● Cranial Prophylactic Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 115 ● Smitty's Wet Dream Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 110 ● Kermit's Wad Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R 40 ● Kermit's Direct Start Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 34 ● Paranoia Streak Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 6 ● Centerfold Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 16 ● Lime Line Variation Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 33 ● Punany Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Lend Me a Dime Sport 2 pitches