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Routes in Kermits Wall

Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: David Rubine, Ron Rubine, and Don Mealing 1982
Page Views: 5,035 total, 29/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Sep 9, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Starting (30 feet?) left of Smitty's Wet Dream, you will see an angling ledge system moving up and right then onto a blank face with four bolts. The blank face is the crux and was pretty slick in my memory. You are heading up and right to meet the top of Cranial Prophylactic.

Descent:75 foot rappel.

Protection

Basically quick draws will suffice (6 bolts + bolted anchors), however small nuts and cams could come in handy in a few places. Or... set up a top rope above Cranial Prophylactic.
I free soloed a lot of routes back in the day too, but would never have even considered trying this route. I have no doubt that Gordon is telling the truth, though. He was a fixture in the canyon back then, and one of the hardest of the local hardmen. This would have been well within his abilities.

The route is a great route, by the way. The moves on the green slab are unique.

I, for one, appreciate the history. Always wondered who snuck this route in without being noticed. Nov 8, 2013
Hi - Just wondering something. I free soloed this route back in the late 80's. Anyone else?

Thanks - Gordon Douglass Sep 14, 2011
Such a great route. I did this as an onsite when Darren K asked me to set up a top rope for a club day a few years back. I had no idea what a wonderful experience it would be. Jul 7, 2011
ron rubine
Los Angeles
ron rubine   Los Angeles
It seems like it was just yesterday when we were putting up Kermit's Wad back in the summer of whatever that was. My bro Dave and Don Mealing having just gotten jobs at a spot called Navajo Trails Rocky Mountain Ranch Camp outside of Bicknell, Utah, near Capitol Reef National Park. It's great to see those spontaneous efforts in Cottonwood Canyon that day afforded some folks the opportunity to do some quality slab climbing over the years. Whoever initiated the strand that ferried me back in time to a great summer in God's Country - thanks. I hope that Kermit's Wad spawned many an ascent on some of the greatest granite on the planet.
Ron Rubine Jul 7, 2010
Keith Forest
  5.10b
Keith Forest  
  5.10b
Original FA Info:

I wanted to submit the missing 1st ascent information for this popular and fun route.

Kermit's Wad was originally put up in 1982 by David Rubine, Ron Rubine and Don Mealing. All bolts were put in stance on lead. They originally rated it 5.10b. The route was originally led by starting up the corner to the left and then stepping right on to the slab below the 1st bolt. Gear was placed in the corner.

The direct start was also climbed at that time on TR from the 1st bolt and then led through.

The Rubine's and Mealing did this route passing through on a brief climbing stint in the canyon on the way to CA. Upon hooking up in CA they told me about the route. Rubine gave me permission to report it now.

It always has seemed interesting to me that routes take on lives of their own, especially popular ones, and become part of an area as if it always belonged to it. Much of the time the 1st ascent party becomes secondary to the climb itself. I know these guys enjoyed putting up the route and were glad people have found it worth doing. May 23, 2010
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10b
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10b
This route is not too runout any more (just a little between bolts 1 and 2 on the easiest slab section). It has, I believe, 7 bolts (not sure when they were added). A #2 cam is deemed prudent for the starting moves. excellent line, especially near the top from the crux to the last bolt! (last 4 bolts) Oct 26, 2008
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
I am not "man" enough for this route... Sep 29, 2008
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10a
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10a
favorite slab route in the area Jan 25, 2006

 
Just climbed this today. It is a fun route with some pretty healthy runouts (from the last bolt to the anchors is very "healthy").The main crux is from the fourth bolt to the green section of the wall. A cam would be helpful under the small roof beneath the fist bolt, as the bolt is about twenty feet up.

p.s. Two of the three anchor bolts are spinners, so be careful. Oct 15, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a
I believe there are 5 bolts on the route. Another fun friction route. The crux is definitely after the 3rd bolt, until you can get your hands onto the edges on the green face. After the 5th bolt, one has 2 choices. 1) Continue on the ledge to the vertical crack, then go up to the anchors. 2) Traverse right and up on the sloping ledge. Jul 22, 2004