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Routes in Kermits Wall

Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jameson, Boyd, Gygi '80
Page Views: 1,022 total, 6/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral. This dihedral is the crux, and may be hard to protect. Climb up thin holds in the dihedral, joining Smitty's Wet Dream after 15' - 20' up. Follow Smitty's to the anchors.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.


Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic or Smitty's Wet Dream, and safer.


Lime Line Variation is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.
Matt Park  
I'm 6'6" and it was foot work that did it for me. Started with my right edged on the nice small rail about knee hight. Started to stand up on that and shot my left foot out to a small flake really high up and far out. From there you can reach really nice holds and make it out of that first big dihedral. I agree the second is harder than 10D I went out on the slab by the bolt. Aug 19, 2011
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
There are at least 2 good small nut placements on that thing. They won't keep you from tapping when you blow the move but at least you won't roll in the talus or hit the tree. Burly move, kinda silly, height related for sure. Apr 14, 2010
wren raming
s.l.c., ut
wren raming   s.l.c., ut
i felt the same way as greg, not to hard to start in the corner, but topping out on the right side seemed harder then .10 d Nov 19, 2009
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
so after reaching the lip to the left do you step over into smitty's crack or do you continue straight up? I tried the straight up and it felt way harder than 10d, but pulling the initial corner onto the left corner felt more in the 10 range. Sep 6, 2009
I dont remember if being tall helps here. But FWIW Kent Jameson was about 6'6" tall. He had a mega long reach. hehe Sadly, he died in a climbing accident a number of years ago. RIP Kent. Had fun with you out on the rocks dude. Oct 1, 2006
Nathan Fisher
Nathan Fisher  
1 move route. A one tough move route. A one tough thinking man's move. Otherwise, obviously, the same route as Smitty's. Aug 29, 2004