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Routes in Kermits Wall

Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Miller and Smith '76
Page Views: 4,952 total, 30/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Cranial Prophylactic is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Look for a finger crack with a bolt about 15' up.

Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt. After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor. Many people rap from here, one rope rap.

If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin. It continues up and eventually works left to a topout. Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.

Protection

Nuts and small cams for the first pitch.
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
If you're doing the second pitch:

If you trend right towards the top you can do a diagonal traverse over mildly chossy rock and continue that direction to rap directly above the start of gordon's hangover, maybe about 10-15ft from the top out. Said traverse is a bit exposed but not too hard. Mar 4, 2017
Ally Lamb
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ally Lamb   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I encountered a small bat nesting in the crack about 6 feet off the ground. Was able to continue up without causing him or myself any harm but definitely be watchful of where you are jamming your fingers! Jul 26, 2016
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
You might search on this site as that bolt has been debated a fair bit. Bomber gear, but, difficult stance.

Bolt has been there longer than you've been alive...

Kim doesn't care. If you don't like it, don't clip it. Nov 30, 2011
Alec LaLonde
  5.8
Alec LaLonde  
  5.8
The bolt could go. It's right next to bomber gear Nov 27, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Climbed the second pitch today, and would recommend it. It had some fun moves, and good albeit spaced out gear. Walk all the way back to the gulley 80ft beyond the cliff edge then down to Paranoia Streak's anchors. May 6, 2011
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.7
I give it a 5.7 just because I thought it was a little soft compared to other 5.8's i've done in the canyon. Still it's a clean short route. Finger size gear. Oct 9, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8-
Dave Smith climbed this in the 70's w/o the bolt. I asked him if he cared that the bolt was there, he seemed indifferent.... Oct 21, 2009
The start is sporty and the crack can disappoint but I did enjoy the neat little step around move at 2/3 height. You know you are solid on trad if you can crank the start w/o the bolt! Sep 3, 2007
tenesmus  
 
There is a second pitch also rated 5.8 but with lesser quality rock, fun exposure and funky moves. The belay at the top is there but thin so be sure you equalize well. Not the standard 5.8 lead but worth doing once if you've done lots of laps on the lower pitch because it gets you more acquainted with the wall in general. Then you can walk around to the anchors of Paranoia Streak for the rappell. You can definitely reach the ground with a 70m rope. Jul 16, 2006
Lee Jensen
  5.8
Lee Jensen  
  5.8
The bottom crack is really fun. About 20 feet. Nice 5.8 moves. After that it is a 5.5-6 swing to the anchors that goes up another 40 feet. But still fun and worth doing. Good lead to set up a top rope for the friction routes to the west. Mar 17, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.8
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8
A couple of noteworthy moves. Nice finger locks. Aug 29, 2004
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
This is an okay route, kind of spicy in a couple of spots, definitely worth doing if you are up in the area. May 26, 2004