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Routes in Kermits Wall
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Aid Practice Boulder A1 |
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Beavers Cleaver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bottleneck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Miller and Jarvis '80 |
| Page Views: | 6,691 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Apr 2, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.
Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.
Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.
Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.
Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.
Photos
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