Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Miller and Jarvis '80
Page Views: 5,208 total · 26/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.

Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.

Protection

Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic.

Photos