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Routes in Kermits Wall

Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Miller and Jarvis '80
Page Views: 4,108 total, 25/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.

Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.

Protection

Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic.
Great climb, protects better than it looks! Oct 15, 2017
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I really, really enjoyed this route. I'm currently working through all the 9's in the canyon and have done nearly all the classics, and I felt (having recently done a lot of the good ones) this deserved to be in the pantheon of must-do LCC 9's and 9+'s.

Really fun, varied moves. Different than anything I've climbed. Brassies are clutch for the thin dihedral placements. May 13, 2013
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
 
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
 
Although none of the moves were very hard, this route was a head game for me. Maybe I am just not a slab climber, but I found the crux to be getting gear in the tiny crack between the bolt and the steep section. I was actually relieved to get to the steeps and make some bigger moves on vertical rock. Good route though. Be sure to bring your nuts. I don't think I've ever placed so many nuts on a route. Nov 5, 2012
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
"Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch."

If you don't already know, this would be your clue that this is not a 160' pitch. Oct 22, 2012
Alec LaLonde
  5.9
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9
Really interesting route. Sustained, bizarre moves, just enough gear. The jug haul up top is a joy Nov 27, 2011
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.9
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.9
A great consistent route. I had heady mental moments with some moves on this route, but it's all there. Bring micro and other small nuts, and I got a .75 camalot in below the crux. I actually had a harder time down by the bolt, and you have to be thoughtful along most of the route. Jun 12, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
I just did this route and it is not difficult to protect. Just be sure to bring your small TCU's and micro's.

Great Thin Route!!! Oct 7, 2008
Texaswall
The Woodlands, TX
Texaswall   The Woodlands, TX
Led Cranial Pro today and found it an easy 5.8 and disappointingly discontinuous and short. Decided to TR Smitty's and was grateful. I'm 99% certain I did Smitty's proper and think it would have been tough to get pro in from the bolt to the steep but easier face below the anchors. Hard 5.9 and hard to protect. May 20, 2008
Timmy Fearn  
 
Hmm... I see... the route is a thin dihedral, I cruised the arete for most of the way thinking it seemed harder than 5.9 and wondering why there was a 30 foot runout above that bolt. Can't wait to try it again the right way. Good climb none the less! Mar 18, 2007
Pretty consistent climb. Fun little 5.9 move. Bring your small stuff for this route. Aug 29, 2004