Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Cramer and Hank Armantrout, 1982
Page Views: 3,947 total · 23/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


On the left side of the Kermit's Wall area is a long, thin water streak. The route follows the lower part of this streak, shifts right, then crosses back left to exit via a crack under a large block.

(The route that continues directly up the streak is Koyaanisqaatsi, a .12c balance-fest which I have yet to contemplate.)

Bring both your edging shoes and your lead head, as the second clip is serious.

Aesthetic, stimulating, and fun to the finish! Combine this with Mind Blow for a two-of-a-kind session of crystal dancing.


Four bolts, two fixed pitons, and a few small nuts and cams (less than 2").


electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
super good line. upper portion has great moves. first part aint to bad
a fall at the crux could be bad. Jan 25, 2006
You can walk over and TR this from Touch Up. You can also reach Beam Me Up Scotty (good luck!) from this ledge system and then rap back down Paranoia Streak. Apr 24, 2006
steve santora
  5.10c R
steve santora  
  5.10c R
Bill Cramer put this up in 82. Bill is about 6'3', I'm 5'7"/ getting past the runout beginning is not to bad (keep it together) but getting past the buldge is hard 10-c/d. 6 or 8" of reach would definely help. One of the best routes in the canyon. Cheers Oct 15, 2006
BCramer   Prescott
Hey Steve, How are you doing man? I see my reputation exceeds me. Do I really look that tall? I'm actually 6'0". Hank and I had fun on this one! I remember somewhere above the roof leading off some opposed sky hooks weighted with some 'biners to keep them in place. I think it was just before the cut back left. What youthful hubris! I heard there's a bolt there now. Probably a good thing too, almost no one carries skyhooks on their standard rack anymore. Dec 8, 2006
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Hey Bill, the bolt is mine. I decided there was too much good climbing in that black streak and so I bolted the continuation. Sorry if I perverted the boldness. A good variation is to continue up the streak and then exit left to the Paranoia belay before the 12c (?!) crux. May 19, 2008
Really kept my attention! I really liked the moves over the first roof/bulge. The cruxy part is really neat. Dec 19, 2008
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Consider a helmet on this one. A friend split his in half falling off the crux! Great route though - let me know if you need a belay on it :) Sep 22, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c R
I agree with the helmet. I have climbed this many times and have fallen from 3 distinct cruxes over the years. Once I hit quite hard and then bounced onto my head/helmet. Apr 16, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.10c R
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.10c R
Exceptional route. Bottom slab is runout and fun. Clip the 2 bolt intermediate anchor and mantle the huge chickenhead(crux). I saw 4 people all do it differently. Falling here would be ankle shattering. The middle section, again runout, is really easy and fun(not slabby) and then the upper face is a treat with good pro and tiny positive edges. The crack ending is a welcome relief. To toprope this testpiece climb "touch up" and traverse the ledges west w/ a couple 4th class moves to a set of rap bolts. Rap 30 feet down to the top of Paranoia Streak and its two bolt anchor. Toproping this climb requires a 70m rope. No pins on this route anymore, 6 bolts plus a couple cams for the top crack.

Anybody tried to sling the chickenhead at the crux? Seems like it would just pull off, but might give you some psych help. Jun 16, 2011
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
I girth hitched the chickenhead with a 4ft dyneema sling. Then fell on it.. held fine.

I think the short man beta is to go right of the chickenhead. Dec 7, 2014
bheller   SL UT
At 2/3rds height, before climbing up and left onto the blank-looking steep face, micro nuts can protect a stubborn flexy flake. This is a most excellent route to sharpen the mind- it definitely has danger potential. Apr 29, 2015
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Is there a bolt you can clip after getting on top of the chickenhead and can anyone give me an approximation on where the 6 bolts are. I've counted 2 on the start before the chickenhead and two on the upper steep face. I want to get on this and I'm trying to talk myself into giving it a go! Dec 14, 2017