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Routes in Kermits Wall

Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Ellison, Simmons
Page Views: 1,015 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just right of Kermit's Wad and now Punany, is a right facing crack system that Punany actuially starts in before it climbs up and left to the 1st bolt. Centerfold climbs this crack that has marginal protection. The climbing is fun, the line is great...if it protected better it should be more popular. Come and enjoy, and if you don't enjoy this lead, climb Cranial or Smitty's and enjoy this climb on top-rope.

Protection

Small to medium gear will protect down low. The piton that the Ruckman's mention in their book is absent. Also, from about mid-height to where it joins up with Kermit's, protection is non-existent, with at best 1 small brass.

Photos

Lee Jensen
  5.10c
Lee Jensen  
  5.10c
We did this one on top rope after hitting Cranial Prophylactic. I really enjoyed it. Slab friction moves, lie backs, and long reaches. Great for tall fokes. It would be really hard to protect if you lead it, but the crack at the bottom of the dihedral might provide a place for a few pieces. Unfortunately, these rare spots are also the best places for your hands. Mar 17, 2005

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