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Routes in Kermits Wall
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Aid Practice Boulder A1 |
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Beavers Cleaver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bottleneck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,165 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor team's routes in the Cottonwoods. Although probably best considered a "sport route," it has much more adventure than your typical clip-up, requiring a blend of slab technique, creativity, and power. Rumor has it that some holds have broken off, particularly on the first pitch, which I don't doubt given what appears to be some of the remnants and a short section of dubious rock around the quasi-hanging belay. However, it still goes at "easy" 12, and if this is your standard and you haven't been on it, you just gotta do it. I bet there isn't another route like it in Utah.
(1) Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up to a rising traverse past five well-spaced bolts to the stance. The climbing gets increasingly challenging and trickier to figure out the closer you get to the small foot-stance that serves as the belay. Probably 12a, but I'll go 12b given the mental calculus and zen-like balance needed to solve the crux. A short chain was added a few years ago to one of the bolts to make the clip easier, I think, but it also helps the logistics of bailing if the crux proves too much.
(2) Make a few moves up past a bolt and step around the corner to wild climbing protected by a few more bolts and outstanding exposure. Chains on top. If this pitch were off the ground, it likely would get more traffic that All Chalk. Probably a give-away 12a. This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of Agent Orange.
(1) Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up to a rising traverse past five well-spaced bolts to the stance. The climbing gets increasingly challenging and trickier to figure out the closer you get to the small foot-stance that serves as the belay. Probably 12a, but I'll go 12b given the mental calculus and zen-like balance needed to solve the crux. A short chain was added a few years ago to one of the bolts to make the clip easier, I think, but it also helps the logistics of bailing if the crux proves too much.
(2) Make a few moves up past a bolt and step around the corner to wild climbing protected by a few more bolts and outstanding exposure. Chains on top. If this pitch were off the ground, it likely would get more traffic that All Chalk. Probably a give-away 12a. This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of Agent Orange.
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