Type: Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1989
Page Views: 1,574 total · 17/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor team's routes in the Cottonwoods. Although probably best considered a "sport route," it has much more adventure than your typical clip-up, requiring a blend of slab technique, creativity, and power. Rumor has it that some holds have broken off, particularly on the first pitch, which I don't doubt given what appears to be some of the remnants and a short section of dubious rock around the quasi-hanging belay. However, it still goes at "easy" 12, and if this is your standard and you haven't been on it, you just gotta do it. I bet there isn't another route like it in Utah.

(1) Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up to a rising traverse past five well-spaced bolts to the stance. The climbing gets increasingly challenging and trickier to figure out the closer you get to the small foot-stance that serves as the belay. Probably 12a, but I'll go 12b given the mental calculus and zen-like balance needed to solve the crux. A short chain was added a few years ago to one of the bolts to make the clip easier, I think, but it also helps the logistics of bailing if the crux proves too much.

(2) Make a few moves up past a bolt and step around the corner to wild climbing protected by a few more bolts and outstanding exposure. Chains on top. If this pitch were off the ground, it likely would get more traffic that All Chalk. Probably a give-away 12a. This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of Agent Orange.

Location

Start from the top of Smitty's Wet Dream.

Protection

A few cams under 2 inches and a few wired nuts for the first 25 or so feet (easy), draws; single rope okay. Two raps to the ground, stopping at the anchors atop Revenge of the Nerds/All Chalk.

Photos