Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1989
Page Views: 1,313 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor team's routes in the Cottonwoods. Although probably best considered a "sport route," it has much more adventure than your typical clip-up, requiring a blend of slab technique, creativity, and power. Rumor has it that some holds have broken off, particularly on the first pitch, which I don't doubt given what appears to be some of the remnants and a short section of dubious rock around the quasi-hanging belay. However, it still goes at "easy" 12, and if this is your standard and you haven't been on it, you just gotta do it. I bet there isn't another route like it in Utah.
All Chalk. Probably a give-away 12a. This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of Agent Orange.

Location

Start from the top of Smitty's Wet Dream.

Protection

A few cams under 2 inches and a few wired nuts for the first 25 or so feet (easy), draws; single rope okay. Two raps to the ground, stopping at the anchors atop Revenge of the Nerds/All Chalk.

Photos