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Routes in Kermits Wall

Centerfold T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cranial Prophylactic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit's Direct Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Kermit's Wad S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lend Me a Dime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lime Line Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paranoia Streak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Punany S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Revenge of the Nerds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smitty's Wet Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1989
Page Views: 835 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor team's routes in the Cottonwoods. Although probably best considered a "sport route," it has much more adventure than your typical clip-up, requiring a blend of slab technique, creativity, and power. Rumor has it that some holds have broken off, particularly on the first pitch, which I don't doubt given what appears to be some of the remnants and a short section of dubious rock around the quasi-hanging belay. However, it still goes at "easy" 12, and if this is your standard and you haven't been on it, you just gotta do it. I bet there isn't another route like it in Utah.

(1) Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up to a rising traverse past five well-spaced bolts to the stance. The climbing gets increasingly challenging and trickier to figure out the closer you get to the small foot-stance that serves as the belay. Probably 12a, but I'll go 12b given the mental calculus and zen-like balance needed to solve the crux. A short chain was added a few years ago to one of the bolts to make the clip easier, I think, but it also helps the logistics of bailing if the crux proves too much.

(2) Make a few moves up past a bolt and step around the corner to wild climbing protected by a few more bolts and outstanding exposure. Chains on top. If this pitch were off the ground, it likely would get more traffic that All Chalk. Probably a give-away 12a. This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of Agent Orange.

Location

Start from the top of Smitty's Wet Dream.

Protection

A few cams under 2 inches and a few wired nuts for the first 25 or so feet (easy), draws; single rope okay. Two raps to the ground, stopping at the anchors atop Revenge of the Nerds/All Chalk.

Photos

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
I think you mean "the later half of Orange Crush." Aug 23, 2013
John Steiger  
 
I mix up left and right too. That happens in your sixth decade. Jul 16, 2013
grk10vq    
"This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor team’s routes in BCC."

you can take J.S. out of bcc, but you can't take the bcc out of J.S. Jul 16, 2013
tenesmus  
 
The crux for this is super cryptic for me. Go low, stay high? I couldn't figure it out. The second pitch is way more fun than All Chalk.

The first time I tried this there was a biner on a very bleached piece of webbing that was manufactured with stitches along the length of the sling. Getting up to clip that biner was crazy hard for me and when I grabbed the sling there was a nauseating tearing sound as it ripped in two. Fortunately, the stitches in the webbing held. They were all that held. Two threads. Nothing else. Getting a draw clipped into that bolt was kinda desperate just then.

I went back the next week and placed the chain that's on it now. Jul 14, 2013