Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FA: David Rubine, 1982 FFA: S. Carson
Page Views: 1,475 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Instead of climbing up the rightward trending ramp, climb directly up the face to the small roof band, place a cam with a runner, and make the crux move up onto the face. Relatively easy climbing joins in with Kermit's Wad.


A cam under the terrace, and 6 draws for the route (+2 for the chains).


This way is far more fun. Oct 29, 2006
I think you can reach around and place gear like you do for the original start and avoid the spookiness. But its pretty easy between the bolts. Sep 12, 2008
wren raming
s.l.c., ut
wren raming   s.l.c., ut
In my opinion its not to run out, nor to hard. A # 3 cam worked well for me on the little roof. Nov 19, 2009
Todd Green
5.10a R
Todd Green   SLC, UT
5.10a R
WRT it being run out. I talked to Scott about this and he said that he didn't want to affect/change the original route. May 13, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ PG13
It's not run out if there's gear that will hold a fall and keep you off the deck if you blow it before the bolt. In this case a #3 and a couple micros in the dihedral. Also, there is no way this can rater any harder than 9+. May 14, 2010
Keith Forest
  5.10a R
Keith Forest  
  5.10a R
New FA info.
This direct start was was top roped in 1982 by David Rubine right after the 1st ascent of the original lead. (see Kermit's Wad for new 1st ascent info.) He originally rated it 5.10a to the 1st bolt of Kermit's Wad. May 23, 2010
Keith Forest
  5.10a R
Keith Forest  
  5.10a R
For accuracy purposes I believe the first ascent info should read FFA: David Rubine, 1982 FL: S. Carson (In a Snowstorm. First Free Ascent (FFA) First Lead (FL) May 26, 2010
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
Just a heads up that the flake/block to the right of the initial cam placement is loose. I was going to yard it out but we had crap below. Aug 20, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10a/b PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10a/b PG13
FFA (TR) Dave Rubine. FFA (lead) the Dean. Aug 23, 2010
Adam Johnson
Park City, UT
Adam Johnson   Park City, UT
Agreed in the fact that there is pro! I got a few small nut placements a ways up from placing a bomb #3. Aug 30, 2010
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10b PG13
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10b PG13
#3 Camalot in the undercling slot is perfect. If you blow it pulling the bulge you probably won't deck, just really close to it. Definitely PG13 in that you have to run it out to the next bolt. But don't be scared! So much better than starting on the ramp. Makes Kermits Wad ****'s IMO. May 9, 2012
Took the ride on the #3 today. Close to decking but thankfully had a great belayer. If you fall at the crux, the cam is just below your feet and once past that move, it's easy ground to the high 1st bolt. Definitely the better way up Kermit's! Mar 21, 2018
bheller   SL UT
I actually think the friction crux above on Kermit's Wad is more difficult than this direct start. Apr 27, 2018