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Kermits Wall

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

The long slabby wall just left of the Schoolroom goes by two different names in the Wasatch Guide, but has very distinct separations. The lower section is called Kermit's Wall. These walls are connected together, separated by a distinct dihedral, and hold many fine routes. Nice cracks split the face making it a good destination. Kermit's Wall has some quality bolted routes as well as some good thin cracks.

Getting There

Park 1.25 miles up the canyon at the large dirt parking lot on the north side of the road at the Gate Boulders, then follow the trail on the west end of the lot. Take the left fork which heads west (sign for Schoolroom), and follow the new-ish very nice trail through the boulders.  You will see many large rock steps leading the way, trending up and left (well to the left of Schoolroom).

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
Bottleneck
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 1
Beavers Cleaver
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 49
Paranoia Streak
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 166
Kermit's Wad
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 63
Kermit's Direct Start
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Kermit's Direct Finish
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 59
Punany
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 13
Centerfold
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 206
Smitty's Wet Dream
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
Lime Line Variation
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Lend Me a Dime
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 234
Cranial Prophylactic
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Revenge of the Nerds
Sport
A1
 5
Aid Practice Boulder
Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bottleneck
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Beavers Cleaver
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Paranoia Streak
 49
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Kermit's Wad
 166
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Kermit's Direct Start
 63
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Kermit's Direct Finish
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Punany
 59
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Centerfold
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Smitty's Wet Dream
 206
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lime Line Variation
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Lend Me a Dime
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
Cranial Prophylactic
 234
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Revenge of the Nerds
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aid Practice Boulder
 5
A1 Aid

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Squirrel is eyeing the Sun Chips.
[Hide Photo] Squirrel is eyeing the Sun Chips.
Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
[Hide Photo] Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
little bit back in the boulders, looking across CP
[Hide Photo] little bit back in the boulders, looking across CP
1) Punany  2)  Centerfold  3)  Smitty's Wet Dream  4) Limeline Variation
[Hide Photo] 1) Punany 2) Centerfold 3) Smitty's Wet Dream 4) Limeline Variation
Multiple areas as viewed from the top of Waterfall Dome.
[Hide Photo] Multiple areas as viewed from the top of Waterfall Dome.
Cranial Prophylactic
[Hide Photo] Cranial Prophylactic
Centerfold and surroundings w/o lines
[Hide Photo] Centerfold and surroundings w/o lines