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Elevation: 5,488 ft 1,673 m
GPS: 40.57297, -111.77278
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 208,893 total · 790/month
Shared By: SLC Gymrat on Mar 26, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check out climbxmedia.com or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

99 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 255
Direct North Face of Shothole
Boulder
V0 4
 38
Space
Boulder
V2 5+
 105
Secret Garden Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 322
Twisted
Boulder
V4 6B PG13
 139
Dan's Problem
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 120
Shingles Stand Start
Boulder
V6 7A
 106
Lances Dihedral
Boulder
V7 7A+
 11
Lances Dihedral Low Start
Boulder
V8 7B
 48
Bear Hug
Boulder
V9- 7C
 30
Fat Grips
Boulder
V10 7C+
 12
Shingles
Boulder
V10 7C+
 19
All Thumbs
Boulder
V10 7C+
 14
Beer Can Cave
Boulder
V11+ 8A
 5
Back Door Bear Hug (AKA Mr. Mom…
Boulder
V11-12 8A+
 6
Bully
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Direct North Face of Shothole All Thumbs Boulder
 255
V0 4 Boulder
Space Tiger Stripe Boulder
 38
V0 4 Boulder
Secret Garden Arete Copperhead Boulder
 105
V2 5+ Boulder
Twisted Copperhead Boulder
 322
V4 6B Boulder
Dan's Problem All Thumbs Boulder
 139
V4 6B PG13 Boulder
Shingles Stand Start Tiger Stripe Boulder
 120
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Lances Dihedral Copperhead Boulder
 106
V6 7A Boulder
Lances Dihedral Low Start Copperhead Boulder
 11
V7 7A+ Boulder
Bear Hug Copperhead Boulder
 48
V8 7B Boulder
Fat Grips Fat Grips Boulder
 30
V9- 7C Boulder
Shingles Tiger Stripe Boulder
 12
V10 7C+ Boulder
All Thumbs All Thumbs Boulder
 19
V10 7C+ Boulder
Beer Can Cave Beer Can Cave Area
 14
V10 7C+ Boulder
Back Door Bear Hug (AKA Mr.… Copperhead Boulder
 5
V11+ 8A Boulder
Bully Tiger Stripe Boulder
 6
V11-12 8A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Secret Garden »

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