Elevation: 5,488 ft
GPS: 40.57297, -111.77278
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 206,547 total · 840/month
Shared By: SLC Gymrat on Mar 26, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details

Description

The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check out climbxmedia.com or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

99 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 228
Direct North Face of Shothole
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 117
Appollo
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 89
Easy Arete
Boulder
V1 5
 66
Rails
Boulder
V2 5+
 71
Where Have the Holds Gone
Boulder
V2 5+
 96
Secret Garden Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 80
Go Right
Boulder
V4 6B
 277
Twisted
Boulder
V4 6B PG13
 118
Dan's Problem
Boulder
V4 6B
 68
Flying Carpet
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 103
Shingles Stand Start
Boulder
V5 6C
 51
Warm Up Dyno
Boulder
V6 7A
 78
Lances Dihedral
Boulder
V8 7B
 40
Bear Hug
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0+ 4+
 84
The Offwidth
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Direct North Face of Shothole All Thumbs Boulder
 228
V0 4 Boulder
Appollo Goldy & Offwidt… > Goldy Boulder
 117
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Easy Arete All Thumbs Boulder
 89
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Rails Copperhead Boulder
 66
V1 5 Boulder
Where Have the Holds Gone All Thumbs Boulder
 71
V2 5+ Boulder
Secret Garden Arete Copperhead Boulder
 96
V2 5+ Boulder
Go Right All Thumbs Boulder
 80
V3 6A Boulder
Twisted Copperhead Boulder
 277
V4 6B Boulder
Dan's Problem All Thumbs Boulder
 118
V4 6B PG13 Boulder
Flying Carpet Goldy & Offwidt… > Goldy Boulder
 68
V4 6B Boulder
Shingles Stand Start Tiger Stripe Boulder
 103
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Warm Up Dyno All Thumbs Boulder
 51
V5 6C Boulder
Lances Dihedral Copperhead Boulder
 78
V6 7A Boulder
Bear Hug Copperhead Boulder
 40
V8 7B Boulder
The Offwidth Goldy & Offwidt… > Offwidth Boulder
 84
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0+ 4+ Boulder
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