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Areas in Secret Garden

All Thumbs Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Beer Can Cave Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Block, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Copperhead Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Fat Grips Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Goldy Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Tiger Stripe Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details

Description [Edit]

The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check outclimbxmedia.com or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There [Edit]

Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 47
Appollo
Boulder
V0 4
 116
Direct North Face of Shothole
Boulder
V0 4
 29
The Offwidth
Boulder
V0 4
 8
Space
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 53
Easy Arete
Boulder
V1+ 5
 39
Where Have the Holds Gone
Boulder
V2 5+
 49
Secret Garden Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 34
Go Right
Boulder
V3 6A PG13
 50
Dan's Problem
Boulder
V3 6A
 11
Old School
Boulder
V4 6B
 115
Twisted
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 48
Shingles Stand Start
Boulder
V6 7A
 31
Lances Dihedral
Boulder
V8 7B
 12
Bear Hug
Boulder
V9 7C
 3
Shingles
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Appollo Goldy Area
 47
V0 4 Boulder
Direct North Face of Shothole All Thumbs Boulder
 116
V0 4 Boulder
The Offwidth Goldy Area
 29
V0 4 Boulder
Space Tiger Stripe Boulder
 8
V0 4 Boulder
Easy Arete All Thumbs Boulder
 53
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Where Have the Holds Gone All Thumbs Boulder
 39
V1+ 5 Boulder
Secret Garden Arete Copperhead Boulder
 49
V2 5+ Boulder
Go Right All Thumbs Boulder
 34
V3 6A Boulder
Dan's Problem All Thumbs Boulder
 50
V3 6A PG13 Boulder
Old School Block
 11
V3 6A Boulder
Twisted Copperhead Boulder
 115
V4 6B Boulder
Shingles Stand Start Tiger Stripe Boulder
 48
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Lances Dihedral Copperhead Boulder
 31
V6 7A Boulder
Bear Hug Copperhead Boulder
 12
V8 7B Boulder
Shingles Tiger Stripe Boulder
 3
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Secret Garden »

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Photos

Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
A friend of mine lost his wallet last night. He climbed at the boulders near the park & ride. Please send me a message if you found it. Thank you! Mar 11, 2016
Today (Sunday April 1st), a group accidentally took a pair of women’s blue, velcro Scarpa vapors from one of my friends. We were near the warm-up boulder. If this is you, please reach out to me so we can get them back. Thanks! Apr 1, 2018

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