Elevation: 5,488 ft
GPS: 40.572, -111.773 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 150,231 total · 678/month
Shared By: SLC Gymrat on Mar 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details

Description

The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check outclimbxmedia.com or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

77 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 195
Direct North Face of Shothole
Boulder
V0 4
 84
Appollo
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 63
The Offwidth
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 81
Easy Arete
Boulder
V1 5
 51
Rails
Boulder
V1-2 5
 58
Where Have the Holds Gone
Boulder
V2 5+
 78
Secret Garden Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 66
Go Right
Boulder
V3 6A
 32
Old School
Boulder
V4 6B
 211
Twisted
Boulder
V4 6B PG13
 91
Dan's Problem
Boulder
V4 6B
 39
Flying Carpet
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 81
Shingles Stand Start
Boulder
V6 7A
 56
Lances Dihedral
Boulder
V8 7B
 26
Bear Hug
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Direct North Face of Shothole All Thumbs Boulder
 195
V0 4 Boulder
Appollo Goldy Area
 84
V0 4 Boulder
The Offwidth Goldy Area
 63
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Easy Arete All Thumbs Boulder
 81
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Rails Copperhead Boulder
 51
V1 5 Boulder
Where Have the Holds Gone All Thumbs Boulder
 58
V1-2 5 Boulder
Secret Garden Arete Copperhead Boulder
 78
V2 5+ Boulder
Go Right All Thumbs Boulder
 66
V3 6A Boulder
Old School Block
 32
V3 6A Boulder
Twisted Copperhead Boulder
 211
V4 6B Boulder
Dan's Problem All Thumbs Boulder
 91
V4 6B PG13 Boulder
Flying Carpet Goldy Area
 39
V4 6B Boulder
Shingles Stand Start Tiger Stripe Boulder
 81
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Lances Dihedral Copperhead Boulder
 56
V6 7A Boulder
Bear Hug Copperhead Boulder
 26
V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Secret Garden »

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